OK master painters - approximately how much paint is needed for a Model T body?
24 Roadster with fenders.
I want to make sure I have enough of the same batch.
Use per coat as an estimator.
I'm no master painter. but here's what I know.
A quart should cover the fenders and running boards with two - three coats if we are talking about acrylic enamel.
The body will likely need two quarts. I am assuming that you are painting it inside, outside, everywhere. The coverage varies greatly between colors. Also dependent on whether you are using HVLP or siphon gun. Again talking about acrylic enamel.
The problem is that most paint costs about 40% the price of a gallon for a quart. Often it is wise to just buy a gallon if the need is going to be for more than a quart. That way if some sort of catastrophe occurs (bugs, dust, neighbor's cat etc) you will have plenty to fix it. In my world these catastrophes are a normal part of painting so I always buy twice as much as is needed and seldom have any left over.
I used about 1/2 gallon to do my touring body with two coats. Some of the unseen areas wern't painted otherwise, it would have used about 3 quarts. As Royce said - it is cheaper to but a gallon then 3 quarts. I used less then 2 quarts of black on my fenders etc. which included a "Do Over" on 3 fenders.
Pleeeeeeease tell me that the photo is of a car in primer
Tony, paint also varies by brand too. As Royce mentioned, paint guns do make all the world of difference but the amount of pigment vs. binder in the can also factors in with regard to coverage. PPG is usually known for being a "thicker" paint than what DuPont is. Omni (which is PPG's low-end line) is also thinner than it's counterpart. Us knowing what brand you choose will help us with advice. Also, ask your jobber what the mix ratio is with reducer & hardener. A product with more pigment generally requires more reducer. Finally, ask them to quote you a price per sprayable quart. That factors in the hardener, solvents, and the paint. Some company's paint lines will make 7 sprayable qts. per gallon of paint. Others may make 5 or 6 sprayable qts. for that gallon of paint.
One more thing I think you may be fearing that is not that big of a deal anymore is, if you use a good quality paint from a good jobber, they can re-mix it way closer in tint than what you will be able to spray it, ...and especially if you are going to go with black.
BTW, do you still remember how to "force dry" paint?
I went to Tractor Supply Company and they had exactly what I was looking for - Ford Tractor Blue - $9 a quart. Since it's a chain it's obtainable anywhere. Looks gorgeous on the car. Extremely glossy. Well, today I blew it. I mixed in some hardener and it started blowing boggers out. When mixing, dark lines were starting to show up in the paint. I went back to paint thinned with Naptha (as recommended) and all is well again.
This stuff is soooo much better than a rattle can.
I was prepping the panels today with a metal prep and will fix any problems tomorrow with liberal amounts of bondo and putty.
Then, prime and paint.
I have a 4 day weekend so will have some fun finishing the metal work.
Wooding is 90% done.
I really hate rewooding.
But, the wood frame is really strong and fits the sheet metal well.
Tony, we naturally want to see a picture when it's done (and I expect to see you wearing your kilt - in the new Model T tartan, of course!)
Tony, what type of hardener did you use in the paint? I have been using tractor paint from a farm and fleet store on my chassis. I used a hardener from the same company. For a reducer I have had good luck with Dupont 3812 enamel reducer. It's more money than the cheap naptha or tractor reducers, but I've never had the paint curdle with it. I did have problems that way when using the matching reducer from the tractor paint company, and lost a mixed quart of paint.
Anyway, I feel the hardener is worth using, seems to help with drydown and sunlight resistance. Jim
Its a bright red '13 touring that belongs to a nice fellow who lives in the western hills area of Cincinnati. It is a base coat clear coat Ferrari Red. He did a really nice job of it. Not what I would have picked but it is a beautiful car.
I used Valspar paint and hardener and Naptha from the same store. Didn't see any reducer. I know what it is because my Dad owned a body shop and I used to play with the paint guns 40 years ago. Still have them.
What is the right dilution ratio? Any SWAG on that?
Also hardener says to wait 30 minutes after opening for activation. That true or can I just mix and shoot?
Wait the 30 min after mixing before shooting and don't thin more than 15%. I used the same on the speedster a couple of months ago. To thin and it will end up on the floor. 1st coat just mist on, let set up for 15min and then 2 coat,(alittle heavier, 15min then 3 coat wet spray a little heavier. 4th coat depending on coverage. Walk away and let it dry. If you get any sags or runs let it completly dry and resand and shoot the whole panel. It doesn't like to buff out. The only thing I didn't like about
Ford Red was used.