This weekend I did some tinkering on the new '23 touring, and a couple of times got it to run for a few seconds. Before I take off the carburetor and inspect its guts, let's see if anybody has an idea of anything I may be doing wrong.
I made sure all the plug wire connections were tight, and put some new Patterson coils in the box, so the problem is most likely in the fuel department.
My attempted starting was pretty much by the book.
Spark lever fully up, throttle down a few notches. Key off, prime by cranking 3 or 4 times. Key switched to Bat, hit the starter button. Engine sometimes coughs, sometimes starts long enough for me to advance the spark, but never runs more than four or five seconds. Gas dripping from carb, so try without priming. No cough, no start. Prime: cough or start briefly, gas dripping. What about the carburetor adjustment at the dash? I'm not clear on how that works.
The knob on the dash richens the mixture counterclockwise, leans it clockwise.
Try turning it all the way clockwise, then open it two full turns. After the car runs, at a fast idle adjust the knob for best operation. You will also find that you can get a better cruising speed by adjusting this knob at speed.
How much gas do you have in the tank? Many years ago I bought a T that had not run in years and had the same problem you describe. Turns out that adding a gallon more gas to the tank was all it needed. Even though it dripped gas from the carburetor when it was choked, it would use the gas in the carburetor and then die. It took me a long frustrating time to figure the problem out. I had put 1/2 gallon of gas in the tank so I could hear it run and just assumed that was enough because there was gas dripping on the floor.
"Ditto", I had the same problem as Val on my TT.
Extra gas in the tank and away he went.
I wish that was it. I just put in five gallons yesterday.
Check the filter screen in the sediment bulb. If it is fouled, it will restrict the flow of gas to the carb. If there is an inline filter, replace it with a piece of hose and try to start. Most of the inline paper filters will not pass enough gas with the gravity feed of the T. If this does not help it, check out the float in the carb.
The filter screen in the sediment bulb is located behind the cover (unscrews) where the gas line comes out of the fitting at the bottom of the gas tank. If the tank has set dry, the screen will oxidize, and foul up, letting only a small amount of gas pass.
Steve, I'm sure every model t is a little different but this is what I do.
To establish a reference point with carb.adjustment, forget the dash adjuster. Go directly to the carb.,loosen the packing nut on the needle valve stem a little so you can actually feel it when it seats. Turn it in clock-wise until it seats. Not to tight, it's very soft and easy to damage. Then I back it out one full turn, then re-tighten (snug) your packing nut. then get in your car open it up,counter-clockwise), an additional half turn and that's my starting position. then do the choke thing,but I turn the switch on before I hit the starter. I only use the switch off method when hand cranking. After it starts, I advance the timing a little let it warm up a few minutes then turn the carb adjustment back in, (clock-wise),that half turn. Mine runs best on one full turn open, add one-half for cold start-warm up, then back to that one turn open for run. I fine tune it by turning it clockwise till it begins to falter,then counter clockwise till it begins to falter and usually somewhere in the middle is just right.
I had a problem with the Grose Jet in the carburetor. After setting for a while, the carburetor bowl filled up and the car would start up and run for a while and then when I would accellerate it would starve for gas. If I let it set for a while, it would start up and run a while longer. I removed the grose jet and installed a regular needle valve and have had no more problems.
The same problem could be caused by a clogged line from some sediment in the fuel line. This is often the case if a car has been parked for a few years. Condensation and rust form in the tank. If it is a little, it can be fixed by cleaning the screen and sediment bulb, but if it is extensive the tank will either have to be cleaned or replaced.
Gas dripping from the carburetor? You bet. Look at the daylight showing through this bowl. No wonder gas was leaking out. When I got the carb off and opened it up, it was obvious that it had sat with water in it sometime in the past 85 years. Lots of rust in the bowl. I've ordered a new bowl along with some other carburetor parts.
Glad you found the problem. Now, for the benefit of all T tinkerers who have that ground-in dirt look on their fingers (take a good look at Steve's thumb in that picture) here's my personal recipe for hand cleaner:
3 lb. of ground beef
1 lb. of Jimmy Dean Hot pork sausage
1/2 C. of bread crumbs, or crumbled croutons, or saltines
1 TBSP of minced onion
Mix ingredients in a large bowl.
Form mixture into golf ball size balls.
Place in a large casserole and nuke for 20 minutes at 1/2 power. Check to see if fully cooked and nuke some more if necessary.
Add salt & pepper to taste, can also be dressed up by adding 2 cans of condensed Cream of whatever Soup.
Serves 8 (at least) and gets your hands nice and clean.
Thanks, Warren, We needed that! Especially after lots of good food yesterday.......burp.