Universal Joint Housing

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2008: Universal Joint Housing
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Perigo on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 09:47 am:

A friend and I put his engine back in his 27 roadster yesterday. The 2 bolts for the bottom of the housing (bought new from Snyder's) were too short, so we bought longer ones with the same threads. However, even though they seemed to thread okay, when I tried to tightened they slipped.

Are the threads in the pan bad, and if so, what can be done at this point. The pan was straightened on a jig, but I didn't think to check the threads.

Thanks,
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 11:54 am:

Mike, the bolts should be 3/8 X 24 threads. If the bolts are correct then you probably need to heli-coil the pan. I don't remember if it's possible to get a nut on behind the flange as an alternative.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 06:10 pm:

I looked under 2 of my cars today, and find that the bolts go all the way through the lip at the rear edge of the crankcase. It is threaded all the way through. Your bolts should go all the way back. If they aren't that long, you might redeem it by using longer bolts. It looks as though you could use a thin nut if you used longer bolts, but you would have to do some grinding on the nut to make it fit and then hold the nut in place as you turned the bolt. This is a last resort. If you were to weld and re tap the threads, you would likely have to bend it again on a jig. These two bolts are important to keep centered so the 4th main will be in proper alignment. If the longer bolts and/or nuts do not work, it might be easier to look for another crankcase.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Perigo on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 06:14 pm:

Thanks Norm,

The threads are stripped. Another Model T'er emailed me off forum and suggested that I tap the hole for a 7/16 bolt. Sounds like a good idea. Hate to have to find a crankcase and then restraighten it.

Yes the end of the bolt did come through on the other side, but did not hit the pan side.

Thanks,
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas J. Miller "Tom" on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 07:04 pm:

Consider a M10 x 1.0 instead. There may be enough material to tap to this size and it's only slightly larger than a 3/8-NF.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Perigo on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 07:45 pm:

Good idea, Tom!

Never thought about that. Do you think Henry will mind the metrics?:-)

Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By andy samuelson on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 07:51 pm:

Henry probably won't care, but if you listen you can hear the purists gnashing and grinding their teeth.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 08:26 pm:

If the purist want's to crawl under and inspect the bolt don't let him loosen it or it might strip again. I doubt that anyone but you and all the people who saw your post on this forum will ever know about it.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenneth W DeLong on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 11:41 pm:

I have one side that appears to be striped and i was thinking about locktighting in a set screw and using a nut but a new pan is out of the question. The 7/16's sounds easy too! Bud.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 10:36 am:

Mike, lock tite also has a stripped thread repair kit, a type of epoxy, that I have had great success with. Think I found it at napa. good luck, Keith B


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 10:55 am:

Seems to me a helicoil is the best way. I am surprised no one seems to be taking it seriously. Gosh it couldn't be easier. You have the holes in the ball cap to line up the drill and tap. Why go to another size when there is no need and the repair is simple? I've done it a couple times.
Of course whenever you drill and rethread, helicoil or enlarging the hole to a bigger size, you run the risk of cutting oversize threads. Just be careful and go slow.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Perigo on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 10:58 am:

Andy,

I think Henry is probably already spinning in his grave over the problems with the auto industry, particulary knowing his feelings on the banking industry.

Norman,

You're right about that!!! If someone is that desperate to check out a caar, he is way beyond help:-)

Keith,

That sounds good, particulary since the bolt almost holds. I'll check it out!

Thank to all!
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 01:54 pm:

Mike,
In reading the posts, do you suppose that the previous owner had re tapped the holes to the M10x1.0? It might be worthwhile to purchase two of that size and see if they will fit.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenneth W DeLong on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 02:38 pm:

Success!!!!! I stoped by a machinest friends and asked him.Better than removing the engine to re drill i borrowed a M10X1.25 tap and payed .45 for the matching hardned bolt at the industral supply. It took longer for me to get under the car than to compleat the fix! Thanks Tom!!! Bud.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rich Colegrove on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 03:27 pm:

Mike,
You've probably already done this, but (I think) these two bolts are the ones that should also be safety wired together. There are holes in the bolt heads for the wire.
Rich Colegrove


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Perigo on Monday, December 29, 2008 - 07:11 pm:

Good idea Norman! Yep Rich those are the two that are safety wired. The top two have castle nuts and are cotter pinned.

Since the engine has to come out as per the "Disappointing Day" thread, I can easily check them or tap them out of the car. One plus of removing the engine I guess!

Mike


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