I have tried numerous times on the "Starting a new war" thread to get some help/opinions on the following mod.
I'm rebuilding a 13 engine and propose to add the following, to beef up the old oil pan.
Cut a piece of 1/4" plate shaped inverted Y. Invert the Y and fasten to the top 2, 3/8" bolts of the ball cap and bend the base of the inverted Y parallel to the trans cover. Fasten/bolt an angle iron to the rear centre head bolt and bend the angle iron down just above and parallel to the trans cover plate. cut a slot and fasten to the inverted Y with 2 ,3/8 bolts. This would add strength to the notorious oil pan, similar to the ears that fasten the 26/27 hoggs head to the block.
Any comments would be GREATLY appreciated.
Wilf, my first thought is "why?". Unless your going to run off road, 50+ mph consistently or other things the car wasn't designed for, I don't think it's needed. I think your going to add stresses to areas that weren't meant to have stresses. Such as pulling head bolts towards the rear of the engine if I understand your design correctly. T's were meant to flex. Making one area ridgid is going to cause more flex in another area. Make sure the pan is straight before it's installed then drive the car and enjoy.
That's somewhat my concern. This engine has the 3 dip pan, so should be a bit stronger.
No I don't take her much above 30.35 mph and certainly not off road.
I've been reading a lot of the various threads on the subject, and it makes one a little concerned about the big bang of the 2 piece crank club! There seems to be a lot of opinions out there on what causes all these broken cranks.
Mostly old age and hard driving. Just like us old drivers. ;o)
HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!
Wilf, a lot of things get blamed on a lot of things. People try to blame cracked drums on Kevlar bands for an example. I've seen drums cracked that have never seen Kevlar. Cranks have various reasons they fail, which would include driving habits, modifications, improper machining, failure of other components, etc... I would think that pan flexing would be at or near the bottom of the list for crank failures. Otherwise I'd assume we'd be driving other vehicles since the T's wouldn't have lasted long enough for us to be playing with them 80+ years later.
As a retired pilot I guess I don't tend to leave much to chance, hence my concern .
Thanks all for the feedback
HAPPY NEW YEAR GUYS
I have been driving a '13 for over 45 years, and hard too. There is no problem with that oil pan. They did beef them up in later years though. Usually there are cracks around the bolt holes, so just weld them up and don't forget to have the pan checked on a KRW pan jig. Forget all the rest of the crap. I installed a pair of pan reinforcements just to beef up mine, but remember we are not driving on the roads they had 80 years ago.
A lot of people really overthink these cars and do a lot of stuff that sometimes creates problems in their own right. If you want to add a little support it would not be a bad thing to add the corner reinforcing brackets that the later cars had. They go under the pan rails and reinforce the corners where the pan widens out at the hog's head. You may have to whittle them a bit to make them fit because they're really not designed to fit the earlier cars. They will add a little support in an area that likes to crack on early pans.
I think this might be the way to go.
If you are going to vary from the original, why not install a 4 dip pan. You're still all Ford Model T and since all 4 rods are readily accessible, you may not ever need to pull the engine again.
Purist or not,it's sinful to put a late pan on a brass T.