Mounting T Block in Mill?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2008: Mounting T Block in Mill?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Thursday, January 01, 2009 - 02:36 pm:

Guys: Looking for input on mounting T block in Mill to machine manifold ports. Was thinking about using KRW bed plate from combo machine, but too much overhang. How has anyone done this? Thanks, Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By gene k. french on Thursday, January 01, 2009 - 02:58 pm:

Dan:
i did this on a horizontal mill ...indicate block parallel to table traverse ...surface with shell mill or flycut ...indicate gland ring bores and re-cut ...i used long clamp bolts and toe clamps thru cyl. bore to T slots in table to hold down...
on a vertical mill i would locate on angle plates bolted at cyl. head and do the same operations
hope this helps
happy new year
Gene French


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam on Thursday, January 01, 2009 - 04:33 pm:

Dan: I use a Bridgeport mill and mount the block to two pieces of angle iron 2x2x2 with a slot bolt hole in one side of the andgle to allow adjustment. The other side of the angle is bolted fast to the bed of the mill. Slotted hole is bolted to two head bolt holes. The block does over hang the table. Under the "cylinder" part of the block casting I support the block with a piece of rectangular steel, 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 12. A third hold down goes through the throttle hole between cylinders 2 & 3. Three point mounting allows adjustment of the block in relation to the tooling. I do not indicate the position of the block to the table. It is not that critical! I use a machinist level. (My table is level). Then I will bring the cutter down to the manifold surface and traverse the entire surface checking the clearence with a piece of paper. Get it equal on the x and y axis. Turn on the mill and make a very light passs, adjust if needed. Shim with feeler guages.

I consider .030 the maximun I will take off a block and feel comfortable about it. This depends a lot on the block casting and core float when the block was made. Sometimes I will take more off one end of the manifold surface or one edge. Make multiple passes of light cuts to clean un the manifold surface. Hope this helps! JP


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Thursday, January 01, 2009 - 06:44 pm:

Jack and Gene: Thanks, that was the way I was thinking about. Just wanted to know if any one had done it. I have welded up the exhaust port on a junk block and I am fixing to see if my way of fixing this problem will work. Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam on Thursday, January 01, 2009 - 09:01 pm:

Hey Dan: How about some before and after pictures of the welded block????

JP


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Thursday, January 01, 2009 - 09:17 pm:

Jack: This block is a junk block. If the weld stays in this block when I machine it, I will photo the real repair and post it. So far the weld looks like it will do the job. Will let you know how it turns out. Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Art Wilson on Friday, January 02, 2009 - 01:24 am:

Dan,
The weld may have hard spots in it. Perhaps a fly cutter with a carbide bit would be the preferred way to go.
Art


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