I recently purchased a 27 fordor. The front doors drop about 1/2 inch when unlatched, the movement appears to be the A pillar moving where the top is attached. I have removed the top covering as it was obvious thet the bows are broken. There seems to be alot of play at the joint between the A pillar the top wood. I removed the kick panel to look at the bottom of the A pillar, I see 3 nuts that wiggle indicating that the wood is rotted. Is it possible to replace the A pillar without disassembling the whole body? Is there a vendor that can provide replacements? Can I shape them myself? any drawing available? What wood is best? The wood at the "belt" on the inside behind the back seat is also damaged, same questions as above.
thanks in advance for all help
Tony, post some photos. There are epoxies and other modern wood alternatives that you might be able to use. www.Fordwood.com should be able to help you with a replacement, but you may have to take the car apart.
It's possible to replace just the wood you mention without tearing the body all apart.
I did it on a '24 Tudor. Just a lot of grunt work...if you take your time it's kinda fun.
I used fir and birch because I had it.
A number of years agp I bought a 4 dr that sounds like it was in about the same condition.
Check the condition of the sills (816). Any rot here is serious
Check the condition of the top wood (801 804 812) as above
The 827 is the hardest piece to make, I would sure buy that if I could.
Here is the bad news You will find that 90% of each piece of wood is good. Unfortunately that means that 5-10% of each piece has a problem.
I disassembled the car (interior, doors, sheetmetal). Repair/replace each piece as it needs it.
Then fit the doors. Then when the structure is all together and the doors fit while it is sitting on a staightened frame then refit the sheet metal (after you have fixed the rust in the rear corners where the water has leaked in)
Yeah I know sounds like a body off restoration.
Tony, I think the answer to your problem is a product called Quik Poly. It is a 2-part liquid with the consistancy of water. Upon mixing, you have about 2 minutes to apply, the product then becomes a hard plastic. It can be crilled, filed, and sanded.
As Les mentioned, generally only 10% of your wood is rotted. I use Reynolds Wrap as a form
for any missing wood at the end.
The Quik Poly soaks into the dry pithy wood,
fills up the mold at the end and turns to plastic. This of course gives you more strength as well as restoring your original dimensions.
If screws have loosened, make a "cup"with tape
pour in the product. It will absorb into an area larger than the screw hole, thereby giving more bearing area then the original wood.
When joints have become loose, create a dam, pour it in and voila!, a tight new joint.
Quik Poly can be purchased by contacting Lang's
at 1 800 872 7871.