I have had lots-o experience with the newer Model A 28-31; this 1911 is a new experience. I am disassembly parts of the car that need attention and repair. It didn't take long to encounter the radiator mounting bolts. I call them "bolts" but what I have are essentially studs threaded on both ends, with a 3/4" x 1" rectangular plate threaded on the bottom end under the spring with cotter under that. With all the rivets and fender bracket bolts in that location, it's crowded.
The square plate and cotter were rusted on the bolt, and it was not possible to remove this with the lower fender bracket bolt in the way. Couldn't get the fender bracket bolt out with the radiator bolt in the way, even when it was clamped up with the spring fully compressed. There must be a sequence or way of disassembling this I am missing. If so, I'd like to know.
I did manage to cut the cotter with a dremel and get it out; the square plate was frozen pretty good. I put a steel castle above, used a broken drill bit in the cotter location, and did finally break things loose. It seems the rectangular plate was meant to keep the bolt from turning when tightening or removing the upper nut, but mine was spinning 90 degress at a time when loosening the upper nut. So, is this the original set-up and is there an easier way of getting these pieces apart?
Sierra Vista, AZ
What body is that, Ward? Let's see the rest of it. . I remember buying some original 1911 rear fenders from a guy in Sierra Vista about ten years ago.
That radiator mounting looks about right. Check Lang or Chaffin catalog.
I will likely have many more question along the way, so here is what I am working with
No extra fenders from me, perhaps Merle Sprott, Bob Piasanechi, Ed Towe???
Last time I ordered a set of replacment radiator mounts the "square" nut was a long bar type. If you want to keep the car org. I would clean and re use the same parts if you can. Very cool looking can. The seat look like they are as old as the car!
I believe the original setup was 3/4'' wide by 2inches long. It would have not turned at all. Somebody must have cut it off on either side. The replacement ones for 1915 on up are 2'' long anyway. The rest of it looks original. You can order a replacement set for about $25... I just sent a set back.
I think the square one is correct. It was replaced later by the long one because the long one is easier to use.
I think Norm has it right.
Even My 21 still has the square one on it.
Picture of page from Price List of Parts, 5th Ed, Sept 1912. Artist photo may not exactly represent the part Some catalog pics are deceiving.
#3929 Radiator stud and nut 3/8" x 2 7/8"
#3931 1/2 Radiator stud washer nut 3/8" x 24 thds., 1/4" x 3/4" x 1"
I long ago got tired of rusted short (early) plates turning on me. I only use 1926 long plates that can not spin, on all my Ts. I either send and get new 26 plates or make my own, why fight it?
Dave - Who'd see 'em anyway, right?
just another part improved over the years...
Thanks for the input and the parts picture. As long as these are original parts, I will keep it that way. The square 1/4" plate is indeed 3/4" by 1", cut on all four sides. I was expecting to see it rounded on two sides like it was cut from bar stock, but these are cut all sides. There was still some black paint in a few places on these squares. Upon reassembly, I think I will use a little anti seize on the square nut and a stainless cotter, so that it may come apart for someone in the future.
They are the same as what is on my 1912 Chassis (Engine block August).
Those "square flat nuts" are in fact original. Ford did start to use ROUNDED EDGE bar stock for those but not until 10/4/21. They were 3/4" x 1" till 10/23/25 when the so called LONG version began. Those incidentally were 2-1/8" x 3/4" and did use the rounded edge bar stock. Ford did try to help those from spinning earlier on 4/25/24 when they started to drill the threaded hole way off center but still it was 3/4" x 1". There should be a rather thick 1" O.D. brass washer under the top nut. That "special tapered" top nut in your picture is NOT what Ford used on the early cars. That brass tapered nut as pictured began use on 9/19/14 and by 11/9/15 it gave way to the all steel version of that same nut. It is a common mistake by most vendors to supply that "special" nut when it is in fact NOT what Ford used from early 1910 era until 9/19/14.