Looking for a good way to remove the hood shelf carriage bolt with the square nut frozen to the bottom end. All four just spin and spin and I haven't found a way to get a hold of the head because it is countersunk into the shelf.
Tomorrow I may weld a small nut to the top of the carriage bolt, sacrificing it, but at least able to get a grip good enough that the bottom square nut can be twisted off. Any other ideas that might work???
Sierra Vista, AZ
Those pass all the way through the frame,so just clamp the shaft of bolt on inside of frame with some vise grips.
Ward,if the bolt goes all the way to the bottom flange of the frame,bolt cutters.If just through the top flange,I would use my Dremel and grind off the nut.Amazing how little things stop progress isn't it?
Just center punch the head of the bolt, drill it out untill it seperates. You can hold the bolt from turning by putting a wrench on the nut.
I was typing and bickering with my lovely wife while Jack was posting.As usual I overlooked the obvious.
These carriage bolts only pass thru the top of the frame rail. 1911 frame and no corresponding hole thru the bottom of the frame. There is only about 1/8 inch of bolt available below the nut, no chance for vice grips there. I think the idea of drilling off the head would save time. I can make up new carriage bolts with new stuff. I usually grind of new manufacturing markings and doctor the heads so they match originals
Thanks - - - Ward
While you have the hood shelf off, flatten the area around the bolt. It's not supposed to be counter-sunk. There should be a wood block under it too. As the wood block deteriorated, someone probably tried to keep the bolt tight and pulled the head down into the shelf.
What you are witnessing is the reason why Ford started milling a screwdriver slot in the top of that carriage bolt in early 1912 or so. Dealers were having the same problem you are. Also notice that the carriage bolt while being a 1/4" diameter bolt, it has a 5/8" diameter head on it which is larger than modern 1/4" diameter carriage bolts. I made new bolts from 1/4" STEP bolts and turned the heads down to 5/8" diameter and shaped them like the originals. Modern carriage bolts will swim in the counterbored holes in the hood shelves since their head is smaller.
Notice those half twist loop things attached to the front fender iron bolt and used for fastening the top support leather strap - those appear to be forgings and not just a flat piece of steel with a half twist in it. Those are somewhat rare original item - DO NOT LOSE THEM.
I totally disagree - the hood shelves ARE countersunk on the early cars and made totally of wood. That counterbore is FACTORY on the all wood shelves.
Dremel tool can cut a groove for a screw driver,heat nut to help get it loose.Then fill the screw driver slot you made with some liquid steel and file it down.
You're right John. I caught the "11 frame" but it looked like rusty metal in the pic. My error. Wood is correct. It wouldn't be the first time an old frame was used on a "new" car. ;)
I think the whole car is basically an '11 Touring with an awful lot of correct parts on it from what I can tell. I had one like this once but I made the mistake of restoring it. While it came out "perfect" it was no longer an unrestored car which are in serious short supply. I learned too late what I wished I had known.