Hood shelf bolt - how do you...

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2008: Hood shelf bolt - how do you...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ward Sherwood on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 07:03 pm:

Looking for a good way to remove the hood shelf carriage bolt with the square nut frozen to the bottom end. All four just spin and spin and I haven't found a way to get a hold of the head because it is countersunk into the shelf.

hoodshelf

Tomorrow I may weld a small nut to the top of the carriage bolt, sacrificing it, but at least able to get a grip good enough that the bottom square nut can be twisted off. Any other ideas that might work???

Ward
Sierra Vista, AZ


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jack daron-Indy. on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 07:06 pm:

Those pass all the way through the frame,so just clamp the shaft of bolt on inside of frame with some vise grips.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim in Indiana on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 07:15 pm:

Ward,if the bolt goes all the way to the bottom flange of the frame,bolt cutters.If just through the top flange,I would use my Dremel and grind off the nut.Amazing how little things stop progress isn't it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Eastwood on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 07:16 pm:

Ward,
Just center punch the head of the bolt, drill it out untill it seperates. You can hold the bolt from turning by putting a wrench on the nut.
Pete


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim in Indiana on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 07:21 pm:

I was typing and bickering with my lovely wife while Jack was posting.As usual I overlooked the obvious.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ward Sherwood on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 07:50 pm:

These carriage bolts only pass thru the top of the frame rail. 1911 frame and no corresponding hole thru the bottom of the frame. There is only about 1/8 inch of bolt available below the nut, no chance for vice grips there. I think the idea of drilling off the head would save time. I can make up new carriage bolts with new stuff. I usually grind of new manufacturing markings and doctor the heads so they match originals

Thanks - - - Ward


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken - SAT on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 08:11 pm:

While you have the hood shelf off, flatten the area around the bolt. It's not supposed to be counter-sunk. There should be a wood block under it too. As the wood block deteriorated, someone probably tried to keep the bolt tight and pulled the head down into the shelf.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 08:27 pm:

What you are witnessing is the reason why Ford started milling a screwdriver slot in the top of that carriage bolt in early 1912 or so. Dealers were having the same problem you are. Also notice that the carriage bolt while being a 1/4" diameter bolt, it has a 5/8" diameter head on it which is larger than modern 1/4" diameter carriage bolts. I made new bolts from 1/4" STEP bolts and turned the heads down to 5/8" diameter and shaped them like the originals. Modern carriage bolts will swim in the counterbored holes in the hood shelves since their head is smaller.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 08:29 pm:

Ward:

Notice those half twist loop things attached to the front fender iron bolt and used for fastening the top support leather strap - those appear to be forgings and not just a flat piece of steel with a half twist in it. Those are somewhat rare original item - DO NOT LOSE THEM.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 08:32 pm:

Ken:

I totally disagree - the hood shelves ARE countersunk on the early cars and made totally of wood. That counterbore is FACTORY on the all wood shelves.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Jeffrey Cole on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 10:08 pm:

Dremel tool can cut a groove for a screw driver,heat nut to help get it loose.Then fill the screw driver slot you made with some liquid steel and file it down.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken - SAT on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 11:13 pm:

You're right John. I caught the "11 frame" but it looked like rusty metal in the pic. My error. Wood is correct. It wouldn't be the first time an old frame was used on a "new" car. ;)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 01:57 am:

Ken:

I think the whole car is basically an '11 Touring with an awful lot of correct parts on it from what I can tell. I had one like this once but I made the mistake of restoring it. While it came out "perfect" it was no longer an unrestored car which are in serious short supply. I learned too late what I wished I had known.


Add a Message


This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Username:  
Password:
E-mail:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration