I am in the process of adding a starter in our 1911 T. I am finding that the starter must be installed before the dash is installed and that the dash needs to be relieved a small amount to clear the starter mount. I see that the original dash bracket will fit without modification but this means that the starter can not be removed without removing the dash. What I would like to know is what other people have done about this. Is is desirable to be able to remove the starter easily or is it something that seldon needs attention?
I added clipnuts to the frame, to make it easier to lift the dash.
Or, you can cut away at the bracket.
I have a starter in my 1912 touring. In my car if you remove the slot head screws the starter drops down enough to easily be removed without disturbing anything else. Obviously you have to remove the bendix cover and the bendix first.
If your starter was rebuilt properly it should last a lifetime.
I don't think you have a problem.
I did this job for another guy. I saved his dash bracket and clearanced another so the starter can easily be removed. Not a big deal. An Optima battery under the rear seat was used for power.
Thanks for the information. I will use the clips on the frame and look into making another bracket. I sure don't want to cut up an original bracket.
After looking at how the starter fits on the hogs head I got to thinking it might be possible to remove the offending mounting ear on the starter that interferes with the dash and add a screw through the back side of the hogs head to take its place. Also I wonder if that screw is really needed or if the other 3 would do the job.
I think you need to look at it closer. You don't need to remove the firewall bracket or its bolts to remove the starter.
Just to clarify, I think the clip nuts are a great idea but for a different reason. With the clip nuts you could more easily remove the firewall bracket to pull the engine with the starter installed. You always have to remove the firewall before you can get the firewall brackets out because one of the bolts - the rear one - is trapped by the firewall.
Please don't cut the mounting ear off the starter!!!!!
Art, just relieve the corner of the bracket and the edge of the firewall - get a repro part if you don't want to damage the original. It doesn't take much, just enough to get to that screw. If you are worried about "ruining" the car by having non-original parts on it - look at what your doing! You just added a starter, switch, cables and a battery that doesn't belong there.... A little cut on top of that is not a big deal.
Everyone I know that has set the original engine aside "for later when they sell it" has never touched it again. Adding a starter doesn't ruin the car, even if you do cut into the firewall.
Thinking about this in terms of bolt loading and not the fact you're considering altering a part that's at least 82 years old: I would be very reluctant to modify either of the two fasteners on the starter that are next to the frame rail. The load on bendix-flywheel ring gears while cranking wants to force these two gears out of mesh. Looking at the starter above, this means it wants to rotate clockwise in the plan view. This also means that the two outer bolts are not only stopping the starter from rotating on its pilot diameter, they are also going into tension to resist the force couple of the gears trying to unmesh. In my mind, you would not want to mess with either of these bolts due to the load they're seeing. The two inboard bolts, the ones closest to the block are the less critical fasteners.