1911 Running Board Brackets - final story

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2008: 1911 Running Board Brackets - final story
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ward Sherwood on Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 12:12 pm:

Thanks to all for all of the information provided to me on the previous thread. And, it is now time to put an end to the story.

I'm new to this stuff. I had two running board brackets that appeared to match, and they were at the LR and RF locations. The two other brackets also seemed to match in the LF and RR locations, but it turns out that they were bent. It all became very clear when I removed the splash aprons.

bracket

The left-rear bracket measures just as John Regan's frame diagram shows at 18 1/8 inches out from the frame to the center of the hole. It appears to match the contour shown on the 1911 bracket in Phil Mino's picture. It appears level. It sits about 17 1/4 inches from the floor.

bracket

Compare that to the left-front bracket. It measures about 19 1/8 inches out from the frame and about 18 1/2 inches from the floor. You can see it partly in the picture, but it is bent.


bracket

The result is shown here with a straight piece of wood clamped to the outside edge of each bracket. My running boards are making a left turn, while the wheels and frame travel straight. The same thing is happening on the other side. Additionally, the slope of the running board goes from low in the rear to high on the front on the left running board, and just the opposite on the right runningboard. It makes for a very cattywumpus appearance, as if the whole car has been sprung and twisted.

To correct the problem, the runningboard brackets cannot be swapped around. The running boards need to measure parallel and level to the frame. Thus it appears that they should all be the same, as the factory info indicates.

Therefore, I will need to do some rebending on two of the brackets. They do not look easily bent cold. But, will it affect the strength of the bracket to heat it up and re-shape. Anyone with some experience bending these things, let me know.

Ward
Sierra Vista, AZ


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ward Sherwood on Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 12:43 pm:

Here is my other "Model T". I had this wagon moved out to work on the 11.

bracket


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 01:09 pm:

Ward: I would bend them cold. They made a tool for doing this, but if you have a tough monkey wrench with a persuader handle on the end, you should be able to bend it just fine. I just finished doing the front fender irons on my '25 a while back, and they are tough!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey on Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 11:48 pm:

Ward,
Unless your frame is perfectly parallel with the floor, don't trust the floor-to bracket measurements for correct height checks. Of course, you could put the frame on stands and level it, then use the floor for a check.
T'
David D.
PS Nice lookin' '29 Uh, "T"!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 12:01 am:

Question: "Therefore, I will need to do some rebending on two of the brackets. They do not look easily bent cold. But, will it affect the strength of the bracket to heat it up and re-shape."
Answer; No, just get it a dull red and bend with a pipe.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ward Sherwood on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 01:30 am:

David, you are absolutely correct on measuring running board brackets. I just did a quick check to get the point across in pictures. (My 29's dad was a T!)

To straighten these kinds of things up, you have to start with the frame, checking the diagonals and straightening the sides in both directions as needed. I like to stretch fishing line very tight at a know distance away from the frame rails to get a pretty accurate measurement of how straight it is, and also while making the corrections. I have threaded inserts in my concrete floor that I can screw eye bolts into. It is then easy to chain the frame to these and use a hydraulic jack to rebend anywhere it is needed. If that process is not that clear the way I just wrote it, I can take pictures when I get to that point.

Once the frame is good and straight, I will move to the running board brackets. All measurements should be taken from the top of the frame using straight edges, and not from the floor.

I have pictures of this car from 1954, and the car was cattywumpus just like I see it now, way back then.

Ward


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 02:55 am:

HI Ward,
Hmm, maybe it was assembled that way?? After all, Ford was building low-cost stuff--but I think there quality control was better than that!
Sounds like you've got a nice set up--I've used a length of train track rail,and sometimes a tie since I didn't have holes in the floor!
Then I set up a transit and shot the frame, as I didn't trust the floor to be level either! (this was on an A frame that I was replacing all the wood in a fordor sedan, and I wanted to use a level to check the squareness of the body as it went up.) Probably overkill, but I had the tools on hand!
T'
David D.
PS, went through the same thing when we put together my '16 frame, as it was a real mess too, not unlike yours, except mine had been taken apart back in the '60s.


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