I am having a hard time removing the sediment bulb (or bowl) from the gas tank on my '23 roadster. The neck of the sediment bowl is hexagonal shaped for an end wrench (7/8ths in I think) and no matter how hard I reef on the wrench, the sediment bowl won't budge. I'm afraid of breaking something if I yank on the wrench any harder. Anybody got any suggestions? Thanx,.......harold
Try soaking it with Kroil Oil. I have had outstanding luck with that oil, and am convinced it is the best penetrating oil available. I would soak it from inside and outside with several shots a day over several days, I think it will loosen up for you. I would also give it a pretty good tug several hours after each application, which might either break it free or the wiggling might help get the oil to better penetrate the threads.
If that did not work I would try the heat and cold trick, BUT NO OPEN FLAMES. I would probably heat everything with radiant heat, then try ice on the sediment bowl to see if you can get the brass to contract at a different rate than the steel in the tank.
The only brass on the 1923 sediment bulb would be the cap that the gas line fit up to. Your idea might work. Mine is the same way, fused to the mounting ring in the bottom of the tank. As I do not want to risk breaking the solder loose I am in no hurry to pull it.
Where can I get some Kroil Oil. Thanks
Thanx Wes, I'll try it. I've heard others say good things about Kroil, however, it's not easy to find. I really haven't looked too hard for it as I didn't really have an immediate problem that required penetrating oil; NOW, I have a problem, and I'll look harder for Kroil! Thanks again,..........harold
You have to contact Kano Labs. Typically, the stuff is not on any retail shelf. Once you use it, you'll never to back to anything else.
Kroil isn't cheap. Last batch I bought was $69.00 for a gallon can and two aerosol cans but I wouldn't be without it.
About 25 years ago I was at another club members house. He was throwing out an old T starter switch because it was frozen solid. I took it home, and soaked the top end in a small jar of Kroil. Next day I took a hammer and gently tapped the switch head down. It stayed there but it had moved. Soaked it overnight in Kroil some more and the next day the switch had sprung back to the open position. Cleaned it up an am using it yet on my '26 depot hack.
A local gun store in Maryland had small cans for about $8. They were labeled not for individual resale for some reason. I won't tell, if you don't either. Many gunsmith's use it, so you may want to check there.
Will Kano Labs sell less than case quantities? I thought you had to buy a case. I use PB blaster with pretty good results.
Less than a case, yes. A couple of cans, but less than a case. They sometimes have a "special" - try that purchase.
Eastwood has kroil and Glyptal. www.eastwood.com
If you fellows who need Kroil will send me a mailing address I get quite a few ads or 2 for 12.00 delivered to your door King size cans 30 percent more then before. firstname.lastname@example.org
The last time we ordered the King size, it turned out about 20 percent less than the big cans we were buying a while back. I think the industrial size is the largest. Yes Kroil is the best on the market, we could not have restored our antique tractor collection we have without it.
The sediment bulb was soldered in place on my 1915 touring when I got it, and leaking around the solder joint. I am pretty sure Kroil would not have helped me......
I suspect you can get it to come loose using a pipe wrench. The 1912 and earlier Model T sediment bulbs had no wrench flats originally. A pipe wrench gets it off easily.