I noticed that my head seeps a little when running. My question is, can I re-torque it and how much and what sequence? TIA
Yes, you can re-torque.
There is a suggested torque sequence, since I do not have the picture available it is essentially this: you starte in the center of the head working outward and alternating front and back. Think how you might laminate something and you are trying to work the bubbles out from the center as you lay the laminate. Torque to a lesser value as described, then repeat untill you reach the desired torque. I always torque when the engine is cold. After you torque the head, run it to warm it up, let cool and check the torque again.
Since yours is leaking coolant, I would suggest replacing the head gaset and applying spray copper head gasket sealer on the top and bottom surfaces of the new gasket. Depending how long you have had the leak, some of your head bolts may be rusting in the block, might as well take them out now while you can instead of dealing wtih broken bolts in your head and block later. I know, it happend to me.
Here is one sequence, you want to tighten from the center out.
Warm engine, and then tighten, if you have new head bolts and known clean thread holes, then torque up to 55lbs. With old used head bolts, use care, 50lbs is max. If the weeping is minor and at the front (usual), then a little silicone can sometimes fix that externally.
Once you have tried to seal it by tightening and you still have weeping at the sides, then a new gasket is needed. Or a decked head to get back to flat surface. Copper gaskets are better, use spray gasket varnish or alum paint on both sides prior to install. Gasket goes front to back, be sure water opening are right, use a little silicone sealer at the front end at that most narrow edge of the gasket by the water outlet.
With bolts, it's difficult to tell if 50 lbs is pinching on the head gasket, or bottomed out in the hole.
I use studs like the Model A, snugged into the holes, then torqued on the nut to assure all the pressure is on the head gasket. Studs use SAE threads on top, so 10% less torque is used to give the same pinch. They are also less likely to back off, due to reduced thread pitch angle.
1. I make it a habbit to always plain the head. If you don't want to plain the head at least clean it good and use a straight edge to see if the head is warped.
2. Use a bottom tap on all the holes and then blow the holes out with compressed air.
3. Place your head on the blaock WITHOUT A HEAD GASKET. Run all the bolts down and see if they touch the top of the head. If even one bolt does not go all the way down then I grind that much off the end of ALL the bolts. I grind all the bolts so I wont get them mixed up at some later date.
4. Take the head back off. Cut the head off two 7/17" coarse bolts so they are about three inches long. Put a slot in the end with out the threads. Use the two bolts as a guide on either end of the black so you will not damage your head gasket when you put the head back on. Use copper seal on both sides of the gasket. I like the spray type but maybe the brush on type is stronger.
5. After the head is back on and you have all the bolts back in except the two holes with the quides take your screw driver and back the quides out. Once the quides are free of the block take a magnet reach down in the hole and remove the quides. The magnet and screw driver must be small enough to reach down in the hole.
4. Replace the last two head bolts. Below is the sequence I use on to tighten the bolts.
5. I tighten 55 cold and then 55 hot.
Dave, that head looks lonesome sitting there with no block to mate with. Send it to me and I'll make it happy on my 26.
What kind of performance do you get with your Waukasha Ricardo Head?