My horn has gone from strong to very weak. Temperature has gone from 80 to minus 7
I have cleaned contacts Horn seems to have a slight turbine whirling sound but not enough to sound horn
I have read paragraph 1113 in the ford maintenance manual and read forum posts
I hooked up another horn that sounds fine so horn button is not at fault
My horn has the cylinder rear with a center adjusting screw and one at 2 oclock position
Any ideas on how to repair or which position to turn screws and what sounds to hear if I am going in the right direction? Thanks
Not a model T horn,but turning the screw to the right(in) should make it contact the plate. Go first for sound and then adjust to the Ahoga .
Jack is right. It sounds like a Klaxon motor-driven Ahooga horn. If it is, remove the back cover. There should be two felt oilers--One on each end of the motor armature. You might spray some brake cleaner on the pads to wash them out. Also the brushes and springs. Blow dry or let dry for 15 or so minutes. After drying, re-oil the two felt pads with light oil.
Make sure the adjusting screw is under the cap. There's only one screw that retains cap.
Thank you for the wonderful picture! It explains a great deal. This is my horn! Is the cover held on by tight friction or are the two bolts on the right of the picture retaining cover bolts and NOT sound adjusting bolts??
I believe the round head screw on the right is the screw that holds the cover on. The adjusting screw is the one on the left (referring to the top photo) and can be seen in the lower right of the bottom photo.
Very interesting. Removed cover. Brushes OK and horn armature spins. Cleaned armature. Adjusted armature core rod to diaphram so I get slight noise. Probably due a rebuild as if I tighten it one click past slight horn adjustment sweet spot, armature slows down
Mine works best when the engine is running - I get the best sound with the armature a bit tight against the whatever, and it takes a strong 6+ volts to spin it correctly. Charge your battery overnight and try again.
David, the armature will slow down some because it's actually doing more work. The adjustment screw moves the armature forward to where it contacts the vibrator mechanism on the diaphram. If you tighten it too much it's harder for the motor to pull it's self over the vibrator humps. If it runs ok at the sweet spot it's probably fine. Pull the cover off and look at the armature and brushes and they'll give you a good idea of whether it needs rebuilding.
David,If all else fails ,I know a guy..
Make sure the wires are heavy enough. Them little 6 volt motor driven klaxons draw about 10 amps with a well charged battery or w/ the engine running.
Use at least #14 AWG wire for both leads to the horn.
Put a sign on the back of your car:
Watch for Finger
That was my thought Ken, try wiring the horn with jumpers to the battery and rule out wiring problems.I changed from an 8v battery to 6v...BIG difference in horn volume, not nearly as advertised... "Mile Away".
Some of these horns were manufactured as, or have been converted to 12 volt for use on vintage automobiles with 12 v systems. Is possible that yours was one of these and that the 6 volt battery is having difficulty turning the armature to operating speed with only half the voltage necessary? Jim
The one in the pictures above is a Klaxon 8C. If your's doesn't have the tag, they are being reproduced. It may have been removed if someone converted it to 12v.