Today I finished a pair of brackets for mounting tail lights on my roadster.
I don't anticipate a lot of night driving, but I ordered a couple of those 99¢ bike lights in case I happen to get caught out after dark. They'll ride in the trunk or under the seat unless I need them.
In keeping with my custom of not making any extra holes in my car, I made the brackets to be held in place by the closed trunk lid. Although they support modern technology, I did manage to make one of them with a period correct Model T paint sag.
I don't plan to use the various flashing features, but I expect these lights will bounce a little as I drive.
I made the poster board patterns for the body sheet metal on my speedster project.
I swept out the barn and vacuumed up all the suicidal flies off the workbench. Big whoop!
Been working on lots of different things. I got a miled case of the crud over a week ago and been home most days and today spent a half day in the shop for the first time. Almost done with the total rebuild of a horn for the roadster. One big thing I now can say is if working on a horn it is a nesscessity to have à strong and reliable 6 volt source, to test with. Saves a lot of time. Now I just have to finish the reriviting and final paint. I'll post pictures next week.
I purchased several of those lights too and have used them on my '22 Coupe and my '27 Touring. A friend followed me home one night and said they were very bright and it was easy to see me. (I used the side to side flashing mode). The only problem I had with them so far is the knurled nut will vibrate loose and they will tilt down or fall off. Great idea for the brackets.
I was going to drive the pickup to a meeting this morning but it had a dead battery, so I drove the 22 Roadster. The meeting was at the Historical Society museum, so it was appropriate.
I plan to take out another T which I plan to use in a parade Saturday and switch places with the one I drove today so that it will be easy to get out Saturday. I also plan to gas it up this afternoon and to wash it tomorrow to get ready for the parade.
Been doing some wiring in the shop so my friends lathe and mill that run on 3 phase will work. Turned on the power tonight for the first time and all is well and the rotations are even right. Now to get going on some T projects.
Working on updating the Model T Times Index. Cooled down, so lit up the wood stove in the shop and working there.
Then will get back to this project......after we get the new struts on the neighbor's car......
Good to hear from you. Merry Christmas!
Dr. appointment and a day of shopping. Big whoop again! BUT tomorrow I pick up my upholstery kit at UPS from Classtique. Now that's a big WHOOPEEE!
My granddaughter's 5th grade class is studying Henry Ford and the Model T so she asked if I would bring the T to her school for show and tell day....Of course if that is what the baby girl wants she gets...So off to school we go and instead of just her fifth grade, the whole school fifth grade body came out... We had a good day and they had a lot of questions...I even let them get in five at a time so they could at least say they have sat in one....Who knows they may even want to own one when they grow up...Of course mine is standing on the running board in the first picture...
I just bought a basket-case '27 RPU... not sure if it will be a parts-car or a project yet.
Spent a while yesterday polishing all the brass on my '14 Touring before winter really sets in. Started out partly sunny and tolerable but by the time I was just about done the sun had hidden itself permanently and it was rather chilly! The the old boy looks pretty darn good now.
Just finished installing a 30 amp breaker and running conduit and wire for the new building housing the 5th wheel. Got the parts to replace the gear on the generator of the 1927. Get after that next and pray it gets rid of that noise!
I was able to combine an original accessory wiper clamp that I got from Dave Huson with one of the current wiper arms from one of the vendors. I had to do a little filing on the wiper arm and add a spacer sleeve to make it fit. I also made a little hanger for the wiper arm out of a coat hanger to hold the arm up out of the way when I'm not using it.
The semi-circular thing next to the rear-view mirror is a stick-on fresnel lens that allows me to see traffic lights more easily, it is called a light-in-sight (I have no connection with the company, other than as a satisfied customer).
Made my TT radiouse rods only used the rear Y mount rest is made from some old radiouse rods from unknown cars I had living around
and TT brake equalizer
To give me some foot brake like you can set up on the stock T I started with John stoltz setup and modified it to work on a TT
I got the parts made now to install
The lightinsight website says "new", but those have been around since Hector was a pup.
In the absence of snow and salt.......DRIVING.......
Lookin' pretty good for the next 10 days too.
Well... it is not T related but today I unloaded a Modern A motor that somehow found its way into the bed of my pickup while visiting Mike in NWA over Thanksgiving.
grandson and I building an engine. Short block so far.
My granddaughter and I took the T to Conner Bottling Works in Newfields and returned with 2 cases of "old fashioned" soda.
Real root beer, real golden ginger ale, real birch beer, real orange cream, real maple cream, and something called Yup that is tangy lemon.
Eat your hearts out!
I got to do something with my granddaughter!
BTW. Maple cream is to die for and orange cream tastes like a cream sickle
Managed to button up the motor for the Roadster, and get it ready to put back in. Lots of nice new goodies inside, can't wait to hear it run..
Beautifully detailed, John!
I was so happy to have found a place for all the clutter, and had my shop all neatly organized... then dragged home a pile of parts that was too good to pass up.
Thanks Richard, its amazing what a little elbow grease and a rattle can will produce..
Just finished assembly of my new lift need to wire and plumb air lines this week
So far this December I've read and added to several off topic threads. Until my back and legs get back to the point where I can get out of this chair, it's going to be what I do when it comes to Model T's.
Installed the mag horn on my 16 coupelet. At this point I'm pretty much done with the mechanical work on the car. Now it's time to finish up the remaining wood work and then it will be ready for the upholstery.
Finally got a chance to work on the front skis tonight. I found out though that the screws I ordered are to short in certain spots. I have ones that are way longer, so I think I will just cut them down, like it looked like they did originally.
Well, this thread was successful in making me feel lousy about sitting in the house and whining about my back and legs. So I hobbled out to the garage and made a little more progress toward getting the engine out of the touring car. After about an hour I had the wiring unhooked, the steering column disconnected and laying back on the seats. The coil box is out, the exhaust is unhooked and the fuel line is no longer attached to the carb.
I'm not able to lie on my back so this Saturday I'm going to recruit some help from a couple neighborhood wannabe mechanics and have them finish up underneath. So what's left is unhook the driveshaft, unbolt the motor mounts, unhook the front wish bones and take the firewall out. Hopefully, by Saturday afternoon I'll have the engine hanging on the hoist.
I feel real good for what I accomplished out there but as I sit here my legs have gone numb and I swear someone's sticking Ice picks in my lower back and right hip. This is going to be a 2 aleve kinda day.
Today I made a splash plate for the gas cap. I get gas smell in the Coupe when the tank is full. .010 thick brass was pressed between these maple forms and then trimmed to size. Part of the groove was broken away in the cap. The J B weld should file down well when it dries.
Been fighting a case of the crud sense before Thanksgiving. Started on my horn the week before, and some of the time would pick at it. Got it ready for final pain't on Sat. Put it together on Sunday and bolted on. Shortened the wire to look nice. Sounds good, looks good. The bracket needed replacing, and some dents needed taking out of the bell. Hi praise for the as diafram and bracket from Fun Projects.
In the last couple of weeks I removed the engine from my '27 Fordor and took it to be rebuilt. It's never been rebuilt since new, just had rings and valves done, etc. This time it gets the whole job!
Took the radiator shell, lower trim strip and headlight rings to be nickle plated, getting ready to send the ignition switch assembly to Ben Martin for rebuilding & to take the radiator to be recored.
I needed a bracket to match one I had for 1913 dash,so I used a piece of one inch square tubing,and made some.
Excellent work Jack! That is good to see.
Thanks Rich,those scalloped sides were a bear to cut.
Technically a hold-over from November because I called about them on the 28th, also I didn't "do" anything other than find them an buy them, but I didn't pick them up until a couple of days ago.
The guy had them listed on Craigslist as nut and bolt cabinets, with only one blurry photo. They are not in that bad of shape except for one bullet hole and one missing drawer. I thought the drawers had been replaced with a couple that just "fit" in the openings, someone just turned them around for some reason.
The still have all of the part number tags on them as well as some contact information for some of the other "Motor Companies" that they serviced.
LAPS Lupton Auto Parts Storage
Not too bad for a $50 Craigslist cold call. I was actually at an auction on the 28th waiting for a good group of model T parts to come up when I called the guy about the cabinets. I am glad that I did, I think that I was the days big winner! Three hours into the auction when the model T parts started, the guy that had consigned the parts wasn't happy with the prices he was getting, so he pulled most everything out of the auction. First time in 35+ years that I had that happen at an auction. There was more than one upset guy that day.
Drove the T on to and off of the trailer for the first time.
Drove the T into the garage for the first time.
The bands really need adjusting....
Also discovered that I have a really fat foot.
Reverse and brake are too close together.
Finished up the TT AC brake linkage.
(Message edited by JunkyJud on December 09, 2015)
I was able to work on the touring car today. When I had to work underneath it I found, if I lie on the creeper on my right side, the pain isn't too bad. I stayed with it long enough to get the engine pulled out of the car.
I'm so pumped up about today I could bust. The engine is hanging on the hoist. The rebuilt block should be here before the Winters over and by next spring my touring car will join the speedster and the sedan. Yee haw!!!
Did I tell you guys I'm happy!
Hey, maybe things are healing up a little bit.
Pulled the engine last month and finally got round to working on it a bit.
I cleaned and painted various pieces of my engine (yes I paint my engines grey, it's the heads that always something different).
Painted and assembled the hogshead.
Rebuilt my steering column.
Toyed with a few colors (green, blue, yellow and tiger stripped) to paint the low head and finally decided upon this one...pretty isn't it? I think it looks better than the grass green it was painted last time. Shows off the silver script and bolts better too.
Oh crap, now I feel like I want to paint my engine. It's sure hard to maintain the whole patina look with you guys around. It looks nice Martin.
That would look great in the Speedster that shows up from time to time. Purple and lime green.
I rebuilt and modified the boxes on some coils:
So they would fit in here:
Here it is all buttoned up:
: ^ )
I got the right fenders put into place this past Sunday. My friend, Bob Johnson, did the painting. I wish the picture was better, but it is the best my phone can do in a small space in the evening.
Finished up the engine/trans for the '26 Tudor project. Pickled it and sealed it up. Getting too cold in the garage to get much else done until spring.
I just finished rewiring a mag coilring.
I turned a year older today. I am really starting to feel old. But I am still 40 years and 2 months younger than are T !
Built these. Kingston T-4215s, used mid 1909-10:
Won 100 bucks at the Greenwood Arkansas Christmas Parade for best Car.
Front end rebuild on my '15 touring
I raised my body. Loosen the two rear body-to-frame bolts, remove the two middle ones and the two front ones, remove the four firewall bracket bolts, raise the body and set it on blocks.
Set the body on a pair of 2x4 blocks and it will be easy to slide the engine/transmission forward and out.
Beautiful day to drive the T here in Houston today. I have an empty Prest-O-Lite on the '14 so I went by Airgas to see if they had a B Tank in the yard to swap.
There were two Prest-O-Lites in the 22 B tanks they had. The one in the left corner had a modern valve and the center one had a "fine" original type valve.
I took the modern valve because it has the small knob on it and I use a regulator.
The fine valves are probably better if you use the "crack open" method to control the flame. They need a Model T ignition key or wrench to open and close.
Backed up to dock and swapped tanks for $23.06 + tax.
We have a lot of Christmas lights up to go see tonight and the Model T lights are ready.
Ken in Texas
I made it out to the shop for a few hours today. I started tearing down the engine from the touring car. Manifolds, starter, hogshead and bands are off. That's as far as my back would take me. I just hobbled back into the house and now I'm sitting back against an ice pack. I'm looking forward to getting back out there tomorrow.
With the help of some running friends, I got the engine installed in my 1926 TT chassis.
I spent the day tearing down my transmission. Why did it take all day?
When you don't have all the right tools you have to stop and make them.
I've semi-retired, no more 40+ hour weeks. 36 years of engineering, designing and constructing transmission, sub-transmission and distribution lines is enough. My recent employer wants me on an as needed basis so i will do a few projects. Others say drop working altogether. I've had many offers: Limo driver, newspaper delivery, Maint. helper at church, board of trustees at our condo complex, engineering competitor and rebuild a couple of model t rearends. I have a to do list going back to 2009. Will take it one day at a time.
Pulled the head on my stock 1915 and cleaned the carbon off. Measure the lift on my valves to ensure that was correct.
Reassembled and cranked her up.
Just start rewinding a Generator Armature.So I have something to do between Christmas and New year
Got a call yesterday from a friend who needs a '27 large drum axle build, so I said would do after the new year. So today tore into a 'field fresh' axle to glean some parts, took it outside since today was nice 78 degrees, and its messy work.
Always fun to go into an old axle, no telling what you will find. Well, right off got 3 real good Hyatt bearings, that's a +.
Typical on the driver's side the old Babbitt thrust was thin, old shriveled up thing, and missing some of its edges too.
The ring gear side was like what you always find, no thrust washer! Gone, melted like the Wicked Witch of the West, all that was left was puddles of junk.
So, got decent housing to use, and maybe the differential carrier housing will be OK, haven't got that far yet. The torque tube and drive shaft and radius rods will be shortened for a KC Warford he is ordering for this touring, I'm just doing a good axle for it, std. ratio new ring and pinion, new axles, and of course, fitted with Fun Projects modern pinion bearing setup.
Kind of a half-hearted wiring job on the ring gear bolts, hopefully they didn't come that way from the factory!
Sure a lot of talented guys is this club. Meanwhile, I am working on a Ruxsteel.
Actually they did come wired like that! Short length of stout single strand wire. Bent over opposite sides connecting two of the bolts.
That wire on the right seemed twisted, but that is just artwork, the wires are solid.
Typical safety wiring when you take old axles apart. Bolts wired in pairs, 2 x 2.
I salvaged the magnets from a spare flywheel.
This was from an engine that had sat with water in the pan. If you look closely at the flywheel you can see the waterline from about six o'clock to ten o'clock.
I blasted a couple of reverse drums to see if they were any good.
Unfortunately this one is toast. But I couldn't find anything wrong with the other one. From comments I've read on the forum, I was lucky to have one good one out of two.
While I was blasting drums I also did some magnets.
I gave every magnet three hard whacks on an anvil, from both directions. All of them survived the whacking, then this one fell apart in my hands when I was blasting them. I'll give all of them a few more solid whacks before I recharge them.
Whacking magnets will break them, sometime unnecessarily. The metal is brittle enough that you can induce fractures by "whacking" them.
Blasting them basically shot-peens them and I'm not certain that's good for their magnetic qualities. We need input here from more technically savvy folks.
David, all of the pictures that have been posted on here of magnets that have been broken by "whacking" them, that I have seen, have shown very prominent fracture lines in the break. I don't think, and I am by far no "expert" here, but I don't think a magnet will break by "banging" on an anvil, or any other hard surface, if it doesn't already have a stress crack. If it does, it shouldn't have been used anyway. JMHO. Dave
See the corrosion on the lower 1/4 corner of the fracture surface of that broken magnet? It looks to me that that's where the pre-existing crack was.
Steve, I saw the pic of your two candidate reverse drums on your blog - I see that the "good" one has a lot of casting flash in the webs. Hopefully you will be able to balance that drum just by lightly grinding and smoothing the casting flash away on the heavy side.
Finished making studs and nuts for my 1910 rear end. The RE was threaded 3/8 x 24 but the spool was the type that accepted 13/32" studs so I made a stepped stud to accommodate both the threaded end and the shank. The driveshaft end of the studs is threaded 3/8x16, per original. The nuts were special. 5/8" hex drilled and tapped for 3/8x16, also per original.
BTW the torque tube is also 1910 and the holes for the studs will only accept 3/8" studs, not the 13/32" type.
Well, it is nearly the last day in Dec. I made a video. On Jan 1st I'll be getting the T out again for our clubs annual New year tour.
This week I've been finishing up minor issues before I finish the interior wood on my coupelet.
Mainly items I ignored during the engine install, painted the hood, fixed a couple of oil leaks, installed period correct front spring shackles, adjusted throttle rod for correct idle rpm.
At this point I'll start on the interior wood next week.
I have been working on the speedster project wood some more. But today I just made a lot of kindling. There are 7 pieces of wood forming the upper tack strips for the upholstery. I cut 5 of them out easily. The 2 corners are a &^%$#$. I destroyed a lot of wood trying to figure out the cuts, before I use the 2 inch maple pieces for the real ones. I was close with the first one, but all of them after that got worse. So I am at the "walk away from it stage" I pride myself on being able to make "anything" out of wood. So what is up with these two darn corner pieces . If I am more productive tomorrow, I will almost be done with the wood in the speedster All that is left are the 3 small strips at the bottom of the seat area to attach the upholstery to and those two "evil" corner pieces.
Great video, Mike, thanks for posting it! I would say it is up to Steve Jelf standards!
Yes, a nice selection of shots. I see I'm not the only one who needs a top.
Very fine video. i don't why but it make me thinking about the ice road truckers.
I prepared an engine to be build again.
@steve, I have everything to install the top, I thought I'd build a new Roadster instead of finishing the top... maybe this spring.
Rich Eagle, I just now saw your post. Just wanted to say I used JB Weld to do a repair on a carburetor and the gasoline made the JB Weld soft, like clay. I hope the fumes from the gas tank don't do the same with your repair.
Thanks Richard Gould. The cap threads did not fit the tank so I postponed using it. I'll try the cap in a can of gas and see what happens. I appreciate the comment.
As for what I've done lately, Sleep, Cough and Play with Grand Kids.
HAPPY NEW YEAR to All
I repaired my door today. Both bottom corners and one top had rusted away so I formed some sheet metal around the wood and welded the old skin to the new metal. Now I can grind a little and smooth over with filler. Was like welding a tin can. I've done more in December but that's my final thing for the year.