I spent the first day of the new year removing flywheel magnets and cleaning parts.
There's a lot of fuzz from the band lining chewed up by a poor reverse drum.
I haven't removed the tube yet to check it for band fuzz.
After breaking a screw trying to remove it, I ground the peened ends off all the others.
An old time brace is a handy tool for removing the screws.
I've never had this magneto apart, and found chunks of dirt and congealed oil built up in several places.
Readjusted the timer/spark rod on the doodlebug. Plan on taking the grandson for a ride today.
Sent out two Carb's to Stan for his special treatment.
will linebore the mains in a T motor this morning ...re-babbitted this motor yesterday afternoon ...also started the old Farmall M this morning to pull the neighbor out of a snow drift ...only a few inchs of snow , but drifts that are 3 to 4 foot deep ...you have got to love the prairie ...
Finished the rebuild of a round double stack magneto coil loop. Learned how important the insulatoin is between the single coils to make a double. Had to rebuild three coils because of bad insulation.
Just packed up (2) sets of rims and hubs for 1913 T's, which are going to be sent to Stutzman's for rebuild. Also packed up (4) coils which are going to Ron's for rebuild. Next is to remove the magneto ring from my '13 and send it for rebuild. After that, I'll remove, check, and recharge the magnets.
As promised, took my grandson for a ride. He was excited, but the whole "car" thing will be forgotten when he leaves. I just don't see him enough to influence him more.
Chad, maybe and maybe not. You never know what memories will last a lifetime and how they'll be remembered. In 1954 my brother and I saw Death Valley Scotty at the castle. I remember him sitting in a chair, and Mike remembers him sitting in an open car. I have no idea which of us is right. At my mom's funeral I saw a UCLA professor who I knew as a girl. She was my friend's little sister. At the funeral she told me, "You were our hero." I was absolutely stunned. You never know what people will remember, and how they'll remember it.
Planning on bringing in the '23 roadster tomorrow to repair what I hope is just a loose sediment bowl coming out of the new gas tank. Any hints on the best way to seal those threads?
Day one of starter rebuilding. What a mess!
Ron the Coilman
Making up sets of rebuilt Coilboxes and Coils.
Ron the Coilman
I had a Kingston nh straight through carb in my stash for several years. Being 400 pounds heavier my Fodor just doesn't have the zip my touring has. Thinking about it I decided to rebuild the straight through and try it on my Fodor. It took a couple of weeks of soaking to get the tar out of it, plus a new needle and seat, float and gasket kit.
Well I tried it January 1st and if it is not my imagination it does improve the power some but it does make the car a little harder to start. Only more driving and time will tell.
I spent today (Sunday 3rd, 2016) finishing the coil box for my '27 tourer. The coil box was supplied by Chuck.
Here are some before and after pics.
I bought a Model T service manual today on e-bay. Can't wait for it to get here so I can see how I was supposed to have done all that I have done over the past 20 years. I've been selling stuff on there trying to make some Chickasha money.
TOO much of this !!
And this !!!
Chuck I have to admit there is not a better bird to eat than a smoked pheasant!
Today was last day of pheasant season. So now I need to get serious and pull the T into the garage and start work on the lights.
Started some general cleaning up of the block and head on the two cylinder T engine project today. I resurfaced the cut area on the head and also the water outlet. Smoothed out the rear (middle) cam bearing bore so the bearing slides in snugly, it was bound up a bit before.
Did the same as Paul Hunter of OZ, finished up the Fun Projects Waterproof kit for the 25 Fordor, Saturday night. But don't know when I will be able to reinstall it, rain, wind, snow, and freezing rain tonight with a winter warning. Hope my power stays on.
I put the 1915 Ford Model T back on its original wheels and tyres and listed the Ford Model A wheels tires and adaptors on TBay
If anybody from the United Kingdom or Europe wants them they can have them for £1,200
I liked the car with the Ford Model A wheels what do you think ?
n maver it looked good on the Model A wheels but I bet I like it better on the original set up.
Do you have a photo of it that way?
Not at the moment but I will post one in the next few days.
In the meantime here's a picture of a 1927 that I'm also working on .
I also went for a ride on my bicycle while discussing Ford Model T matters on the telephone :-) :-)
Hunt...if you haven't already sealed up your sediment bowl I've found that Locktite 567 is a superior thread sealant for gas and oil. Google it & you can get it online.
Cleaned the gutters out on my shop! Now it will not rain till they get full again. Dan
Bill & Tim,
I bought some thread sealant at my local ACE hardware that is supposedly the best you can buy and impervious to gasoline/ethanol. I drained the tank, cleaned the threads of the bowl to tank threads, bowl to gas line and bowl to drain threads. Being careful not to get any goop on the gas line end itself (thanks Bill), I put everything back together, wound the sediment bulb another full turn into the tank than before, hooked up the gas line and the sediment drain.
Question, the gas line fitting has the neoprene sleeve inside and I tightened it good and tight but could do more but I fear I'll compress the neoprene too far and it'll leak there. So far so good, It's been four hours so far and no leaks.
Thanks for your help.
Took four days off with my sweetie and went to Nacogdoches, TX. there we terrorized the neighborhood driving our T around the town and down quiet country roads. Did a little geocaching at the same time.
The engine was running a little rough at high speeds so I switched out the coils one at a time and found that coil #2 must have been bad because now it runs like a charm and does not miss a beat.
The boot got blown off while trailering back home. Now I need to find another one.
>>>An old time brace is a handy tool for removing the screws...<<<
Hi Steve - What are you doing with that brace & bit?
Are you drilling out the screws or is there a screw driver attachment for the brace?
Completed assembly of some Electronically Cranked Coil Testers (ECCTs)
Finally got the body off the frame and onto a dolly. Now the fun starts!
Norrie...that's a nice looking '27. Nice that you can ride a bike like that one, and talk on the phone too! I'd be getting some road rash if that were me!! LOL
Took apart another '27 rear axle and that one had some great parts, the housings and carrier halves with good pins for the steel thrust plates, great spider gears, and ring and pinion too. Sometimes you get lucky
This rebuild will have a shortened torque tube and driveshaft for KC Warford trans. Birdhaven Vintage Auto supplies a new shortened shaft.
Now have to determine if a new ring and pinion set should be installed, the old one sure looks rather good, very little wear Trying to save the owner a few dollars, if I can.
Many times at auctions there are piles of old screwdrivers you can buy dirt cheap, usually in a variety of sizes.
I never had much luck with those, not coordinated or steady enough, I guess...
Here is progress,so far on 13 touring body panels:Before,&after
Jack, nice panels!
Today I finished cleaning up magneto parts.
The magnets are currently taking an overnight bath in Evaporust. I took the tube and coil ring off the engine and finished cleaning up all the band lining fuzz. I was glad to find that all of it was in the mag and transmission. None got into the tube or the engine.
Looking great Steve, have you considered an extra oil tube to the front while you have it all apart?
I have an external mag post oil line. I'm wondering whether to fabricate a funnel to scoop oil into it, or go with the extra internal tube that bolts on top of the pan.
Steve, i also have the mag post line before i tore mine down and decided to add the R/S oil tube. It seems ridiculously expensive for such a simple tube, but in context, not so much if it aids your front bearings.
You truly are a wonderful artist!!it makes me wish you were my next door neighbour.I look forward to seeing pictures of the completed car.
Not me! My son Jeff,is the metal master.He does things we wouldn't even dream of trying.
Yes the 1927 is not the worst thing in the world is it.
The penny farthing is another hobby last year I cycle 65 miles from Edinburgh to Glasgow with the bicycle for charity,I started at 8 a.m. in the morning in Glasgow and finished at 5 o'clock in Edinburgh and I must confess I had to call a friend for a lift home even though I only live two miles away I was rather exhausted to say the least
Among other things, I prepared for charging magnets.
Charged three batteries.
Marked all the north poles.
mr Maver did you say 65 miles? I cant imagine riding that bike 6 miles! I would sure like to try riding one of those! I would want a helmet and leather jacket for sure!
worked on my Governor display.
finished the rebuild of the generator for the 1925 Canadian engine. Ready to set the new FP RV on it. Rv is on its way to Belgium, I hope it will not need to swim to get over the ocean.
The traditional test weight is a cast iron piston, which weighs about two pounds. I didn't have one handy so I used a spindle, which weighs a little more.
Finished cleaning an early magneto and field coil I had restored some time ago. Getting close to having the 11 engine, trans and mag assembly completed and assembled.
I just finished two sets of coils for the 1914 canadian runabout.
With a little help.
OT, but took my 1971 Plymouth GTX for a drive this morning.
Built these (T-4232 Kingston coils, used in 1911):
Hauled home some stuff that'd been under water for decades. Took a completely seized starter motor and welded up the side of the gear where the teeth were gone. Carved a thing that goes on the end of the starter bendix from a chunk of metal and fitted a brand new spring. Assembled the car and drove it 100 feet when it started leaking fuel and water.
Not bad for other peoples discards.
Took the T out for a drive with the local car club today, was cruising down the highway doing 45 when the hood bow suddenly collapsed and whacked me on the back of the head.
Pulled over and sure enough, one of the prop nuts has come off and top has collapsed. Drove 5 minutes up the road where we were meeting up and one of the other guys came up with a good solution to get us going again.
The incorrect nuts had managed to stay on for decades, I buy new correct looking ones and they fly away in 2 drives. If anyone needs a prop nut there is one on the side of the road somewhere between Nilma and Darnum!
I am sorry for your loss.
I had that happen to an original prop nut on my '14. Gosh, Heck, and Darn.
These are the solution:
Another solution is to drill and tap a small hole on the flat part of the nut. Then tighten the nut and finally install a Allen screw in the tapped hole. Don't carefully it is virtually invisible and very solid. The same idea works on the lowered of the spindle bolts....
I did not feel like turning up the heat in the shop today so I just worked in the kitchen.
This weekend I started to finish up the interior wood work on my coupelet. Mainly putting in all the wood screws back in and painted the top linkage. Still need to cut two slots in the top front piece that sits on the upper windshield.
I took Isabel out for a quick jaunt down the street and back and had a few spectators on my return trip.
I am doing a low cost rebuild of a motor, yes I know I should not have said yes but it looked OK....
Well I bought new mains and rods from our friends at Langs and tried to fit them.. I had measured the crank and it looked a little worn (5-6 thou) so I bought 10 thou oversize bearings. When I tried to fit them, the plastigage was not compressed at all, yet the crank would not turn when the bolts were tightened. Then I tried Prussian Blue and all was revealed....
I only have a picture of #3 main in the before condition and you can see how the contact is only near the split, I had to scrape the bearings at the side to get the correct diameter to match the crank. Oh it is a slow job
I had the same problem with the rods, they are now coming along OK
Next time it will be a reground crank (or a new Scat), this scraping is very expensive.....
Mostly, I have been fighting the cold that knocked me down before Christmas. Haven't spent enough time on the T lately. But I have the differential largely gone through, all parts checked and fitted, rebuilt as needed. I worked on the radius rods today (the last major parts), almost ready for the final assembly. The runabout should begin looking like a car fairly soon!
Steve J, I see you found a good use for THAT spindle!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Hmmm, didn't do much on my T except take a lot of pictures of the transmission for drawing purposes...and ask a lot of question on the forum about exhaust systems...of course.
Since the Red Flags were out for the beach, decided to do some poolside reading last week. Was a nice way to start the winter!
Front end is redone, but the rearend remains to be opened up. No problems so far but you never know. Put the T this weekend before winter sets in.
Hey George, How about showing us a few front ends and rear ends around that pool area!
By the way that doesn't look like Mass this time of year!
Dennis, the ends were like picking thru some outside collections, some real nice some not!
No it is not Massachusetts. Was in Tulum Mexico.
A great way to slide into retirement!
HAPPY RETIREMENT GEORGE!
Today, I was looking for an original way to put an Ampere meter on the dash of a 1914 Canadian runabout with a 1925 engine.
Here is what I did, not alone but with a very serious assistant.
Your assistant does good work Andre
While trying to figure out how to seal up my triple gear drive to hold oil, I decided to modify my crank so it would stand up like Fast Frank's.
I just finished a starter and two generators.
I just finished the PowerPoint presentation for the Henry Ford's 2016 All Staff conference. The title is The Ford Weekly Payment Plan: Henry Ford's Answer to Buy Now Pay Later.
So far this month I've disassembled a spare 12 rivet differential and put the parts in inventory. It's part of my quest to assemble as many mechanical "wear items" as I can find so that when retirement hits in a few years, I have plenty of bearings, bushings and the like to keep my T's running at minimal investment on a retirement wage.
Nelly would not start with the Marvel (fresh gas even) so I changed back to the Kingston L4, took me 3 1/2 hours to find the allen wrench! 15 min to swap out the carb and fire her right up for the first time in 2+ months !!! Rain or shine I plan on driving her to the shop tomorrow. Fixed the passenger side head light, adjusted the AC brakes and pull wire for the brake light switch.
The roses are still blooming and the rhubarb is coming up here in Portland. Got a Schebler on it way to play with next.
I traded the matching serial number, original paint '27 coupe in my profile for a 15 year old restoration of a '29 A roadster pickup. Don't hate me Forum Friends
Today I completed the scraping of all seven bearings on the T motor. Scraping sure took a long time, not helped by my impatience, so I only did it for about an hour a day so I didn't mess it up. Now I can get on with normal assembly, that should go a lot quicker.
I forgot to add a picture, seems like you cannot add pictures in the edit mode...
Working on removing my small drum rear wood wheels. Loosened nuts and drove crazily and managed to loosen up one of them. The other is SERIOUSLY stuck.
Guess I'll try heat next. Have ordered a thread chaser to try and clean up the threads as the hub puller has been pretty much useless.
A little off beat, but for my two cylinder T engine project I welded my two pieces of crankshaft back together. Now I need to grind and dress the journal back to size.
Last week I honed the cylinder walls to clean them up and ground the valve seats. I have a bunch of NOS 2 piece valves, as much as I hate to do it, I think I will press them into duty here. If this turns out alright and runs good I can easily upgrade later. I think for now I will cheap out until it runs.
We just got back from Kingman Arizonia. We were plotting a 3 day tour for the first week of May. We found some very interesting old mining towns and also 3 interesting museums right in Kingman with an interesting old town with antique shops along the famous route 66. The scenery is also outstanding. We also found an excellent car museum at the Riverside Casino in Laughlin NV. So we have found interesting things to tour in the area.
I cleaned up and refinished my tool kit:
Finish my speedster project
Yesterday I got all 3 T's out of the garage and rearranged them. The 3rd one out is the one I want to take to Holtville carrot festival in a couple weeks so I aired up the tires. I still have to fill the tank and oil the axles and wash the car. The festival is weekend Feb 6-7 so I still have a few days to get it ready.
The last few days I've been using the machine shop at the juco to make some parts for balancing transmission drums.
I produced quite a pile of curly stuff.
I had to spend money and buy the material for the hubs, but the shaft is from a junk axle.
Rebuilding NH carburetors
I removed all of the sheet metal on my fordor. Next step take it down to the platform
I remember it well. ( The Year 1989 )
Best regards, John Page, Australia.
I cleaned my gas tank. I started a paint job about 4 or 5 years ago and I finished that, all but the turtle deck. Fixed by steering column so there is no play. It'll be good for a speedster, one day I'll find a correct one with the 2 pc gear case, but now the steering is tight and so are the throttle and spark levers. Got the parking brake working on one side, need one more rod. Installed brass thrust washers a while back. I'm about ready to get on the road legally.