Here's something to ponder when doing a preflight on your T. The rim appears fine on the outside but a close look at the inside was a whole different story.
Good thing you caught that...looks like an accident waiting to happen
You see that a lot with Model T wire wheels. You spot what looks like a wonderful find, then a closer look shows that it's toast.
I'm wondering if anybody has welded one up with any success ?
I guess if you cleaned it up good and did a close inspection of the entire rim and found it to be salvageable you could weld it but the down side would be that adding weight to one side would screw up the balance.
Don't stuff with it buy a new rim, I had one blow out at 50mph, No fun!!
Thank you Don and Frank for sharing your experiences. Frank, I am thankful that you are okay and Don, I am thankful that you found the crack before it found you.
I think this type of posting is worth more than all of the how to fix it, is this correct, where do I find it kind of posts. I DO value those posts and all of the others.
I am just so thankful that we all look out for each other's safety by sharing this sort of thing.
THANK YOU ALL.
The first picture really makes this too easy. This crack was very hard to see and looked more like a crack or scratch in the paint. I don't want anybody thinking they shouldn't take a good CLOSE look for safety's sake. It appears to be much longer than what is obvious. This rim is toast and shall not cause harm to human or T.
That "open" rim lug is indicative of a Chevrolet rim.
This 26 Tudor I'm currently working on has a few more than a few oddity's. But, that's part of the venture. The other lugs on this rim are closed and it may have been worked on more than once. Either way this one is headed for the scrap pile...
There's only one open lug in the Chevy rims - they have the tube valve too close to the lug, that's why it needs to be open. On Ford rims the valve is a bit close to the split instead, none is perfect
Chevy rims can be used on Fond wheels if a new hole for the valve is drilled in the felloe.
Thanks Roger, that is what I like about this hobby...you learn something new everyday. I appreciate your input !!
Another posted here put this photo up of his clincher rim edge that failed at speed. Tire and tube ran away from his wheel! Eek.
Here is in the day info on rims. Today we have old tired rims that many times are so rusted they shouldn't be used. Rust causes the metal to flake away, with thin spots at critical points. Clincher rims are really un safe once the clinch gets thin, sharp edge cuts the tire bead.
When really rusted, the rim will separate.
This sharp rusted away rim will cut thru the rubber tire bead quickly.
Happy for you that you spotted that problem before incident. And good that today we have available new mfg. rims that may be purchased, as finding real good used rims can be a hard search.
Those splits usually occur next to the joint in the rim, as shown in Frank's post. The join lets in water, and then the rust gets going. It pays to carefully inspect Ford rims at this point.
Allan from down under.