This time, a '26 Touring found its way onto my trailer. I needed a body for my gow-job project, and this one fits the bill nicely.
It has been cut off and welded back together, so I won't feel too guilty about cutting it off again.
Here's the end goal.
Ain't it fun we're spending thousands of dollars nowadays to create the looks of a $25 jalopy from 80 years ago?
I've got the same sickness, you've got a great project there ;)
The wheels and hubs are worth more than the rest of the car!
Since your goal is a $25 jalopy let me know when it's finished. You can consider it sold. I'll get a check out in the mail today!
With the snow coming down, the 2ed photo looks like you are in a cave!
Derek, I sure like you profile with the two little helpers.
Derek. Does you finished project include the "$25.00" artwork. I think that would make a neat #25 race car .. have fun and be safe Donnie Brown ...
I'm seriously considering painting $25.00 on the side of it.
Derik, It looks like a great project. I know where there's another '26 that's the same color with more modern (not spokes) steel wheels on it. Is there a chance that was once a stock color for 1926?
I saw the ad for that car. The seller said "original blue paint" but there is blue overspray on the steering gear cup and cover, spark and gas levers and quadrant, etc. I think there was red primer showing through the cowl where the blue wore off.
Even if you buffed that oxidized paint, I doubt it is original factory gun metal blue. It's just too blue instead of gray-blue.
Looks like someone may have given it a "restoration" in the 1950s, then it was parked outside for a many years before being brought back inside and disassembled.
Yeah, seller was wrong about a lot of details on it... friendly guy though, and fun to talk to.
The car was no real bargain, but selling the wheels/hubs, fenders, bumpers, top bows, etc will bring the price of the body down a lot.
I wanted something weathered and showing its age so the paint on this is PERFECT for what I want to do.
So is that a Minnesota car or from somewhere close by? Are you considering something similar to a Fronty or some form of overhead valves? Or am I looking too far into the future at this point in time?
Have you been able to sell your "midget" racer yet?
It came from WI but was advertised on Minneapolis Craigslist.
I do have a RAJO Model B head that's reserved for a speedster build later on, but for now this project will stay low-budget. The goal is running and driving for $3000, but I need to sell off a bunch of parts because I'm over that already and haven't even started working on it yet.
The idea of the super-low-budget project started about a month ago when I picked up a complete '27 chassis and a lot of extra parts pretty reasonable and have sold enough of the extras to have the complete chassis with wire wheels, engine, axles, etc for basically free. Now this one wasn't such a bargain, but if I can sell off the duplicate parts, and all the stuff I don't need for a gow-job, I should be into a chassis, engine, axles, wire wheels, and a decent body for under $1000
Initially for speed parts I'll do 3:1 or 3.25:1 gears (need to check the thrust-washers anyway), a clip-on style old Bosch distributor (can't exactly remember what I paid... maybe $50?), and make my own header and intake manifold to run a Stromberg OS-1 that I bought for $20.
Real high performance parts might come later, but I might as well build another car when I decide to do that.
I still have the Midget. I priced it kind of high, but I don't mind keeping it.
Please keep us informed with photos and sketches of the manifolds as you build them. I'm thinking of going to a dual exhaust un my speedster but, I'm also interested in alternative exhaust and fuel systems. I read something recently about a Model A intake turned upside down and placed on a Model T engine and utilizing a Stromberg carb.I've seen downdraft carbs on Model T engines in the past. I've been curious, wondering how it was accomplished.
The Stromberg OS-1 is a side-draft just like the ones they made to bolt on a stock intake, but bigger. It was a stock carburetor on a Studebaker (even says Studebaker on it)
For exhaust, I want to use a '26-27 stepped torque tube with a pipe for each cylinder going into a the next bigger step. It will go straight back and stop just before the passenger door. Loud, crude, and cheap, just the way a kid would have built it in the early 30s.