I don't like the idea of just flopping the hood all the way over. Looking for ideas to hold it open without doing that.
I don't have a clue. I have been around Model Ts since 1967 and I have Never seen Anyone prop open a hood, just flop it open. Perhaps someone has an idea and good luck with your project. Bill
I always thought 'flopping it open' was the way to do it. Been doing it that way since the late 50's.
I assume you want to open it up without scratching the paint or??
Are you referring to the picture you have on your profile page?
Is the guy using his head to hold his hood open?
That is a new one on me!!
The hood on my '23 Touring rests very nicely on the webbing of the cowl and radiator shroud when open.
Gary I just looked at the MTFCI judging standards page and the car shown has its hood open and in a upright position. Maybe that way would work as the hood is not flopped all the way over. Looks like it may be held up some way?
You could solder a hook on to the top of the radiator.
John, Yeah, avoiding scratching the paint is one of the reasons. The guy under the hood in my profile is my grand dad. Didn't think of that picture but looks like gramps had his own way of opening the hood.
Tom, That is kind of what I had in mind.
I have an idea I might try that won't modify any part of the car. Even though it is a Hack so some license is allowed. If it works I'll post it later.
The only modification done is soldering a piece of copper shaped like the letter J to the top of the radiator which could easily be reversed. I could see how a modification like this might result in point deduction on a judged car. I'd like to see your idea, even if it doesn't work.
I flop it over carefully on my 27 but I bought a new stainless hood prop for my 30 model A. But its just a couple rods that clip on under the A hood. I have never seen one for a T but my car still needs lots of parts to get to go for a Ride!
Most just gently fold the hood over, makes it easy.
If you do 'prop' the hood on the webbing, look out for heavy winds, or someone bumping the T. Seen a few hoods fly down and cause paint trouble.
That clip on the radiator is neat trick
I take 2 pieces of hanger wire and bend one end of each into a loop around the radiator support rod. The other ends are hooked. When I raise the hood, I reach underneath for the appropriate wire and hook the end onto the bottom edge of the hood. I also have a piece of slit, black, vinyl hose slid over the edge of the hood to prevent scratches and rattles.
Easy, on pre improved models, just take if off.
Tom, I like the idea but for some reason my hood won't rest on the radiator tank. It may be because my hood former is home made, remember it's a Hack, and I got things a little tight.
Jerry, I've done similar with a length of strap going over the radiator support rod, through the hood handle and back with a simple wire piece connecting the ends. I might try your idea except I'd slip a piece of tubing over the wire ends before making the hooks.
My hood came with leather corners installed. It sits nicely on the radiator tank and does not slip. For larger jobs I remove it completely.
I'm thinking out loud here, don't have mine up and running yet but a small leather or web canvas strap and buckle looped around the hood suppport rod and coming through one of the footman loops or handles on the side of the hood?
Also, to prevent rattles, the military was big on using strips of web canvas, either straight up or soaked in tar. Used to run a strip between every body panel that was metal on metal to prevent squeeking. I am thinking of running a strip of web canvas along the top of the wood hood shelt to have the hood latch down on something with a little cushion to it.
There is no strap on the front of the center hood hinge so it can rise up and cause the hood to fall over. I just lay the open side carefully on the other side being sure the hinge does not come out of the socket in the radiator. Propping it up would make it much easier to fall over especially if the car is not level or a wind might be blowing.
The Model A has a strap which goes over the hood hinge and also had tabs on the corners of the radiator for the front edge of the hood. So supporting it in a raised position is no problem with the A.
Well, for now at least, I decided to follow the KISS approach and use minimal engineering. To use my prop I insert the L end through the hood handle mounting hole from the back side then drop the hook end over the radiator support rod. Inserting the prop through the handle hole prevents it from slipping off. Part of my reason for doing this is my hood corner hits my wood fire wall when I flop the hood all the way over.
I used the little holes in the corners of the radiator to put these nuts and bolts in. Two nuts hold the bolt in place and give the leather corner of the hood something to sit on.
I made a prop for my 27. It attaches to the radiator center support bolt.
Lynn, that's a pretty slick gig you have there!
I once saw a T that had 2 bicycle kick stands fastened to the firewall for use as hood props. That was quite a few years ago and my memory is kinda fuzzy on it.
You could probably sell a few of those on here if you made up a batch. That is a really nice setup and the script looks beautiful on it. Depending on the price, I'd definitely buy a couple (maybe more).
If you come up with an all black version that fits and works on a on a brass car I'd definitely buy one too.
Just for this purpose, a friend of mine carries a soft terry towelling cloth in the car and lays it down between the closed and opening sides.
Finally got what I was looking for. I didn't really like the rod with the hook as I needed a place to put it when not in use and required some fumbling around to get it in place. My hack is built on supposedly a 24 frame with the metal firewall and a mounting hole just under the hood flange. I'd used a carriage bolt to connect the wood firewall to the metal one and I thought if I lengthened it I could use it to mount a prop for the hood. What I came up with is quick and easy to use, out of the way and could almost be period correct.
I've since painted the prop black. There are two jam nuts one side of the assembly and a nylon locking nut on the end. The two leather washers are to provide friction to hold the prop in place.
Gary - Really nice job! I like the simplicity and I'm thinking that one way or another, it's such a nice design that (one way or another) I wouldn't be surprised to see a similarly designed item in the major Model T Parts suppliers catalogs! I did have one thought though,....would it make sense to locate the two jam nuts on the outside for easier access for adjusting with two end wrenches? I'm thinking that over time, as the leather ages, wears and compresses, an occasional adjustment might be necessary to maintain the right amount of friction. Just a thought,....again, great idea, design and workmanship, using mostly common hardware items,....and thanks for sharing with great photos,.....harold
Thanks Harold. I am prone to keeping things design simple if I can. My use of a nylon lock nut on the end was so I could tighten things up a bit if needed. The locknuts on the inside should never have to be moved. I'd thought of using a castle nut with a cotter pin on the end just for fun though. Maybe if I fancy up the prop a bit I may do that.
Ya know, I saw something at the HME and thought it was really slick...looked homemade but I suppose it could've been store bought too.
This guy had a 26 roadster pickup with a Rajo. But the hood prop was pretty fancy...it bolts to the firewall and to some flanges he had welded onto his radiator shell. You can see the prop with the spring on it about mid way along that silver rod. The nice thing was that when he wanted to put the hood down, he just lifted his hood and twisted the "V" hook rod down and then latched his hood down. I thought it was really kind of neat looking.
Of course this is far more elaborate than Gary's idea...I like Gary's better...wonder if I can work an "S" curve into it, that way it would look sort of 20's ish.