Looks like Right Stuff is the right stuff to use and I am reading about the special spray on sealant for the copper head gasket. But does EVERY other gasket on the 26/27 engine use the sealant?
Can I presume not the manifold gaskets due to the heat? Are there other gaskets that should NOT get some sealant on both sides prior to installation?

I'm ordering the gasket set from Langs that includes all the engine and transmission gaskets.
I'll hang up and listen.

Robert one thing about the "Right Stuff" is that it sets REALLY fast. I personally prefer Permatex Ultra Black.

It won't hurt to spray the manifold gaskets with the same stuff you spray on the head gasket.
I have never had a gasket leak because it had sealer on it.
If you use Right Stuff or any other RTV you can eliminate the paper thin gaskets, including water inlet and outlet, timing cover gasket and generator.

I use the sealer on any gaskets,covers, pans ect and I use the rvt black on my model A and T. I hope to keep some of the oil inside the engine on my old 26 T. I have had no leaks using this on parts that seem to leak without it. Just one less worry

Agree with Seth. The Right Stuff is the Wrong Stuff for me because I'm too slow. It sets up before I'm ready. I use old time Permatex #2.

When you put the transmission inspection cover on the hogshead the sealant goes on the gasket. Smear a coating of grease on the hogshead and on the cover. This will keep the oil in but you'll be able to remove the cover later without wrecking the gasket.


This block is definitely not smooth, so I sealed the manifold gaskets with Permatex Ultra Copper high temp RTV.

I will second (or third)ultra black RTV for gaskets. I even use it with those thin paper gaskets. The secret to getting great results with it is to have the mating surfaces spotlessly clean and free of contaminants. I don't know how many guys I have talked to who complained about the stuff, but never prepped properly and gave it 24 hours to cure. Same goes for Copper Coat after torquing the head. I guess if you're in a hurry, use some other stuff.

Keep in mind that if sealant is used, and the paper gasket is eliminated, that some assemblies require a gasket to set up proper clearances of the assembly. EXAMPLE: GENERATOR GEAR DEPTH.

DO NOT put gasket sealant on the transmission band access door,unless you like scraping and replacing the gasket every time you need to adjust your reverse or brake bands. (sorry that is my pet peeve when I work on an engine and someone has glued that thing down like Fort Knox!)

If you have an irregular surface to seal to, but want to make the mating part removable, here is a way:

Put a bead of sealer on the irregular surface, then a layer of wax paper. Bolt down the mating part and let the sealer cure FULLY.

When the sealer is cured, remove the mating part, pull up the wax paper, and trim off any excess sealer.

The irregular surface is now smooth and you can bolt on the mating part using a gasket as usual.

I'm seeing a busy weekend with all this information on gaskets and seals. But after cleaning off 90 years of oil and dirt from this engine, it makes sense to spend a little time and effort to try to keep it looking and running nice.

Plus, I've used up most of my drip pans underneath my 42 Ford GPW, so I need to talk my wife out of some cookie sheets. We are out of laundry overflow pans and roasting tins.

Thanks to all.

Ooops, just thought of another question. The trans band cover was a good point. If I used sealant on both sides of every gasket, if I need to remove one for any reason, I'm replacing the gasket. I'm visualizing most covers and plates being permanent in their installation except for one ..

Would it make sense to keep the carb gasket dry until we are all back together and running well? I'm thinking if I use sealant there and then feel the need to remove the carb for repair or rebuilding, I'm out of action until I get a new gasket.

Keep dry until satisfied, then goop up?
Rebuild carb before instalation, even if not necessary?
Goop up and keep a few extra gaskets on hand for just such an occasion?

I have no sealer on my carb gasket and it seems to work fine.

No sealant on carb gasket. Do as Steve Jelf said on trans inspection cover.

Makes sense. And, if I feel that I need some help on the carb gasket, I guess the suggestion of the grease on the trans cover would work on the carb gasket as well. Just a little grease on each side to insure good seal.

Makes sense. When I pull the trans cover off to clean for painting, the cover came off easily and the gasket remained on the hogshead. Seems like the previouse owner followed the same good sense. The "gasket" over the bands appears to be some sort of screen or material covering the entire bands. Plastic? Hmmmmm.

If I use sealer I always put it on the part that will be removed. That way the gasket comes off with the part and if it needs to be replaced it is a lot easier to scrape off. I think I have had the same transmission cover gasket on one of my cars for more than 20 years. Every time I inspect the bands the cover and gasket come off together nicely and I have never had a leak there! Lots of other places, but not there!

"...some sort of screen or material covering the entire bands."


If that means this, it's an accessory oil screen. It should have a strong magnet in it like this to catch little bits of metal.

I put Ultra Black on the top and bottom gaskets of my trans. cover to hold them in place, but leave the mating surfaces of the trans. strainer dry. I've greased those surfaces in the past and noticed after a while that there's leakage when the oil melts out the grease. I'm going to try some Easy Turn next time on there and see if that seals better. Got some for my fuel shut off valve, so there's plenty to spare.

Found for me, using two cover gaskets works along with the oil screen plate. One cover gasket is sealed with Permatex #2 to the hogshead opening, and it gets an initial coat of oil on its upper surface.




Then another cover gasket is sealed to the underside of the cover, and that gasket gets the oil on its surface.



So when you place the oil screen, its sandwiched between the two gaskets, and no leaks. Easy to remove the cover and remove the screen, no gaskets to remove.

Dan, that is exactly how my screen is attached, it works great!

I use red RTV on the sheet metal side of the gasket and nothing on the machined cast surface. I put head gaskets on dry. I may be alone on this but I have never had a head gasket problem.

I'll throw a monkey wrench in here. Made a living for 45 years as a mechanic as if that means any thing. I have for years used 3m weatherstrip sealer on gaskets that I want to stay in place i.e. trans cover, pan gasket to block, inspection cover gasket to inspection cover. This will allow you to reuse certain gaskets if you are inclined to, I haven't replaced my inspection cover or trans cover in 7 years and over 50,000 miles, and yes they have been off a lot of times. Be careful using rtv on both sides of a gasket as it is slippery and will at times make the gasket move when torque is applied. Remember most good gaskets are made to swell somewhat when oil is present so usually you need sealer on one side to hold it in place. I don't use the felts as in my opinion they are wicks used in a day when little was known of seals and sealers that would stand up to gas engines. KGB

I use Fastbond 10 from 3M, which is a quart can of weatherstrip adhesive, to attach paper gaskets to one surface. Then RTV on the other surface. The RTV peels right off when you need to disassemble for any reason, so I can typically get several uses on each set of paper gaskets if I am careful.

For the hogshead I always use The Right Stuff instead of the felt seal. I don't get Steve's comment about not being quick enough, you just need to snug a couple bolts on each side and then take your sweet time installing the rest if you need to take a break or play on the internet.