1915-1916 Headlight Switch Question.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: 1915-1916 Headlight Switch Question.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter C. Strebeck on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 09:52 am:

Could someone please tell me the dimensions of the rectangular mounting plate for the 1915-1916 headlight switch? There were some in a box lot of parts, but the switches have are two different sizes of mounting plates, and both sizes are marked Connecticut Telephone & Electric. Any help would be much appreciated.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 10:02 am:

There were two suppliers of switches (at least) in 1915 - 1917. One brand pulls "Off", the other brands pulls "On".

Here are photos of the two types.

Pull Off:



Pull On:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable - Kiama NSW OZ on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 09:08 pm:

Mine is- 1 inch by 1 and 5/8 inches


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter C. Strebeck on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 09:31 pm:

Thank you, that is actually quite helpful. I have a couple that are the same size as what you have quoted and then a couple that have a slightly larger mounting plate. The larger ones that I have are 1.250" x 2.000", not much bigger than what you have, but still bigger. One of the "smaller" switches has a resistor wired to the back of it. Thanks again for the help.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Monday, January 25, 2016 - 02:41 am:

For sake of complete info, the hole for the light switch was first added to the dash drawing on 10/7/14 and was specified to have a diameter of 15/16" and also the mounting screw hole locations were drilled for pilot screws. Then on 1/15/15 Ford changed the hole size to 7/8 and removed the pilot screw holes saying those holes would be "drilled in place" which was a common notation meaning the device itself (here it was the switch plate) was to be used in place for location of pilot holes. The hole was removed completely from the dash drawing on 10/2/17. Maybe that may help to identify early versus late switches - or not.

Hope this helps.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Norton on Monday, January 25, 2016 - 07:34 am:

The headlamp switch (partially obscured) on my 1915 appears in thread Forum 2008: Right Hand Drive Controls.


Not sure if it's original or reproduction. Anyway, as I recall, it's pull on / push off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter C. Strebeck on Monday, January 25, 2016 - 09:09 am:

These are the two "sizes" in question:

switch1
switch2

The switch on the left has the "smaller" mounting plate at 1" x 1.625" with a steel mounting plate and steel cap/knob. The body diameter is the 27/32" specified in the encyclopedia.

The switch on the right has the larger mounting plate at 1.250" x 2.000" with a brass mounting plate and brass, plated cap/knob. The body diameter is the larger 7/8" as specified in the encyclopedia


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Monday, January 25, 2016 - 10:04 am:

Peter-
The switch on the left is what I have seen and is on my car. Mine measures 1-1/16" x 1-11/16". I suspect the switch on the right could be an aftermarket switch or from a different (maybe larger?) car.

If the switch on the left is not operable, I know that very nice looking reproductions are available for a very reasonable price.

David: the switch you show is the push-on, pull-off variety.

The mounting screws for both type are in the same relative location 1.200" apart.

Oh, and don't loose the wire terminal screw. They are an odd-ball thread. Don't ask me how I know...

Hope this helps.

: ^ )

Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Norton on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 06:03 am:

Hi Keith, I just checked my switch with a multimeter and it's pull on / push off.
Maybe it's not a standard switch or a Canadian thing?
I wonder if anyone else have a similar switch pull on / push off?

OFF

ON


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Norton on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 06:04 am:

Back of switch


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 09:41 am:

Those rectangular face plate type pull/push switches were common early types to operate lamps.

Many sold aftermarket, most would pass for the Ford style.



Below two, look alike. The one on the left is original typical old style, would pass for 1915 Ford type. The one on the right is new, reproduction by Bob, it is nice, looks and works great!



Here is original getting fixed up, needing some paint.



Finding that missing machine screw was a chore, dang odd little threaded thing :-(


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 03:16 pm:

I have one of those "gang" switches that I'm saving for my someday boat-tailed speedster, figure it just looks right for a wooden body. Now what to turn on & off with it--hmm, "running lights"?? Hmm, more crazy ideas!
My '16s headlight switch came with a bunch of other early T parts, the mounting screw holes still have paint across them! If I knew which box it is in, I'd post a photo.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter C. Strebeck on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 03:44 pm:

"...Now what to turn on & off with it--hmm, "running lights"??"
Seeing as how it would be a "boat-tailed" speedster, definitely some nautical running lights, just like they used to put on the hood of the Amphicar. I just saw one of those gang switches on eBay not too long ago, I think it had four switches.

Looking at the different photos, knowing the size of the plate is definitely important. It is definitely a tight piece of real estate where the switch is mounted. The switches that I have with the larger mounting plate would surely have an interference problem with the flange for mounting the coil box.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 06:44 pm:

Peter, that's what I was thinking too. . .. Devious minds think alike!! :-)
So, here's an update on my boattail speedster sketch with running lights--yes, it has a lot more work to be done to it; it's just a concept!

Hmm, maybe some lights down on the running boards too???


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Layden Butler on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 06:48 pm:

David,
Drool over this..I did!
http://theoldmotor.com/?p=137985


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 10:27 pm:

Layden,
Uh oh, I think I'm shorting out my keyboard with drool! Wowziers!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 10:54 pm:

Boattail???? David, yours looks like a keel up boat with the bow pointing aft. I thought they were supposed to be more like boats keel down with bow pointing aft, you know lots of nice curves. I suppose it would be more aerodynamic your way though. The slip stream might even keep the dust down too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 11:58 pm:

Martin, that's one of the unusual features of my design, this style "Tumblehome" stern was popular about 1880 or so. Can't say what the reasoning was though! I just thought it looked "cool." Can't find a picture to show it though.
I have some other decisions to make too: passenger-side door, or "climb over to get in." Having the spare on the driver's side negates any need for a door there. Then there is the end point, I might want to shorten that, and add bumpers so it doesn't get damaged easily.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 12:22 am:

How about rear bumbers like on Model A (but without the twin bumper bars), they're on either side of the rear fenders. That way you could keep your bow intact where otherwise you might lose your nautical identity lines.

I think climb over would be best with an outside leg up step. Keeps from breaking up the body lines and the need to hang doors and square up latches and hinges (a thing that can be a really big pain, one more place for bothersome rattles to start). Plus making a door, lining up it's plank sides with the bodies plank sides, might be more troublesome than it's worth for the convenience of the bloody door. Of course I'm looking at it from an artist view point, which may or may not be a practical stand point at all. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 12:23 am:

How about rear bumpers like on Model A (but without the twin bumper bars), they're on either side of the rear fenders. That way you could keep your bow intact where otherwise you might lose your nautical identity lines.

I think climb over would be best with an outside leg up step. Keeps from breaking up the body lines and the need to hang doors and square up latches and hinges (a thing that can be a really big pain, one more place for bothersome rattles to start). Plus making a door, lining up it's plank sides with the bodies plank sides, might be more troublesome than it's worth for the convenience of the bloody door. Of course I'm looking at it from an artist view point, which may or may not be a practical stand point at all. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 12:26 am:

Oh damn, I've got a stutter....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 03:28 am:

Martin,
I was thinking of those issues (lining up the door & having enough strength in the body sides too. BUT, I'm also considering SWMBO, who has some issues with her legs, so I may have to put in a door.
Hmm, bumperetts. That's a good idea. Have to come up with something with a nautical theme to them! Right now I'm thinking of something like the Brewster cars used, but that may be too modern.
Sorry folks, we've strayed from the original subject!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 09:56 am:

David Norton - that switch is one of the two types used in 1915 - 1917. I pictured it above, perhaps you overlooked it.
Here it is again behind the speedometer:



Later ones had steel knob to pull off / push on.


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