Ruckstell short nose shift lock questions

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Ruckstell short nose shift lock questions
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Niel Beck on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 04:37 pm:

Am I correct in assuming the notch is what is referred to as the not necessarily desired “neutral” shift position.
notch in clevis

Is there a trick to pushing the plunger down far enough to spin the clevis to remove it. The plunger moves but I have to rig the fork assembly in a vise with a spacer on the clevis then use the vice to move the clevis from side to side.
moving clevis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 04:54 pm:

I would consider that a dangerous move.
That is all that locks it in gear.

Regards, John Page Australia.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Niel Beck on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 06:54 pm:

John
Thanks for the response. I wasn't clear enough in my second question. I am replacing the clevis because of the notch shown in the 1st picture. The problem I'm having is moving the plunger down far enough to spin the clevis. My question is what is the trick to getting the plunger down.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Sunday, January 24, 2016 - 08:01 pm:

Stan Howe, you've done a bunch of these, what is the best way to disassemble the short nose shift lock?

:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Glen Chaffin on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 11:27 am:

That is not a neutral notch. And you don't want a Ruckstell with a neutral. What you have is a worn out shift clevis. We have new ones that are hardened.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 11:33 am:

I took mine apart a couple of months ago and honestly don't remember exactly how I did it, but I don't recall having a lot of difficulty.

I think that I put the housing in my vise, then just took a pair of channel locks and rotated the yoke enough so that the plunger popped off the outside edge of one of the notches. Then I took a punch and knocked out the two pins that the yoke rotates on.

I agree with Glen, that yoke is toast. If you decide to go the route I did, it would be a good idea to drape a towel over the assembly when you pop the yoke over to keep the plunger and spring from flying out and getting lost somewhere.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 11:36 am:

I've changed out several of those worn out shift fork plungers - hold the piece with the plunger in a stout vice then using a rather large adjustable wrench - large enough to grab one complete side of the fork and PULL - don't poke your eye out when the plunger "launches" ! To replace, grease up the tips of the plunger and do the reverse - go real easy and it will go into it's place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Niel Beck on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 06:35 pm:

I want to thank everyone for the answers. I'm finding more and more this forum is a wealth of information. I find myself searching more and more as I get into getting this coupe ready to run.


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration