When installing a KC Warford how much do you remove from the length of the rear radius rods.
I am helping a friend who has a new KC Warford that has been on the shelf for a while. He has the shortened driveshaft tube already, but needs to shorten the radius rods.
Any input is appreciated.
Herb, a far a I know the Warford takes 12" out of the torque tube/drivehaft. I would take the same 12" from the radius rods just behind the threaded end but into the angled part of the rod. Then I would bolt both ends of the cut rod in place and you will be able to see just how much more needs to be cut off to get a butt join. It can be welded while being located in place if you vee it out first. This way everything has to fit!
I cheated with mine by joining and plating the front and back ends of two frames together, making the 'new' one 12" longer.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Herb, I cut mine right in the center, then mounted them in place and again cut them in the center where they overlapped one another, then welded them up.
From memory the instructions with the new style warford say to cut the radius rods about 15" from the rear and then assemble the axle. Then measure and mark where the front section need to be cut. Then weld together.
Texas T Parts (Birdhaven)
Website with install instructions, hints on cutting the radius rods.
Local friend doing it this way, cutting after the short torque tube is test fitted. Am doing the rear, he is getting me the short tube next Tues, and then can install the short driveshaft also supplied by Birdhaven.
Forgot to add...another reason for me to finish with the torque tube and the rear assembly is the tube must go 'upside' down on the rear end. The grease fittings for the U-joint and the drive shaft bushing have to be placed under the car.
Otherwise the shorten drive line, you can't grease from above as the U-joint and driveshaft bushing grease fittings are under the body, no access.
I believe back in the day, the instructions must have said to cut the radius rods, lap them and bolt them together. I installed a Warford in my T back in the late 1960's. I cut it off right in front of the Y and cut an approx. 11" piece out of the longer section. At the time, I welded that piece back to the front of the Y. About 10 years later, it broke at that weld. What I determined was that there is actually a metal bar about 7" long, 1-1/2" wide, and 1/4" thick which is split to form the Y. It extends up in the tube a ways. The tube was probably split so that it went around the bar and along the Y. I had originally cut that off maybe about 1" after the bottom of the Y. I had cut the bar inside that extends inside the tube also. The butt weld I had made was not really strong enough to hold it.
What I did to fix it was to weld a bar back onto the Y so that it extended up inside the tube. Then I welded the tube to the Y. I also put in two rivets through the new bar and original tube. So far, no problems with that set up and it looks factory.
Verne, what you found at the rear of the rods is the reason I suggested cutting them at the front. The tube can be progressively cut back to the solid section of the threaded piece, and then there is plenty of meat to weld to. Being close to the end is more forgiving to the eye if you don't quite get things in perfect line. Making the join in the middle makes this more difficult.
Allan from down under.