Help with New and Improved Sediment Bulb

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Help with New and Improved Sediment Bulb
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house . . .caldwell county, TX on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 05:47 pm:

I had a problem with my '26 roadster stalling out 4 times on the 7 mile trip from town the other day. Knew exactly the reason. The sediment bulb was doing its job. I've never cleaned out the screen. So I've decided to rebuild 3 late sediment bulbs.on 2 wall hangers the valves are stuck. I've removed the nut and little lever and the brass nut encompassing the lever and soaked them in penetrating oil. I have an oxy-acetone torch and have had success freeing up steel on steel but it's been my experience that bronze or brass becomes brittle and breaks. How have ya'll achieved success in this task?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 05:52 pm:

George,
You don't want to take apart brass parts while they are hot. Steel you can, but brass gets brittle. Heat it up, let it cool, then take them apart.
Verne Shirk


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - 07:18 pm:

Here's my trick.

Torch the iron parts hot, not the brass parts, then put the bulb while hot hot into the freezer, let it cool. The brass will separate but use a hollow punch over the lever shaft, and push it out of the iron bulb.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house . . .caldwell county, TX on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 08:20 am:

Oh, OK. Thanks Verne and Dan. That's what I'll do then. No quenching? Just let the parts cool. Thanks again...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 09:01 am:

Quenching might cause the cast iron to crack.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Dufault on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 11:37 am:

Dan,

Any advice as to how to get that little springing thing back onto the valve (opposite side of the lever) when assembling the cleaned parts?

Thanks in advance...

Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 11:41 am:

Try pushing on the washer with a pair of needle nose pliers with one hand while slipping in the cotter pin with the other hand. Be careful, or parts will go flying if the pliers slip! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Dufault on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 11:47 am:

Thanks...
already flew away once. Guess I should bring it to a meeting of the club and enroll another set of hands for the assembly!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, January 27, 2016 - 02:20 pm:

Mark

Correct, regular needle nose will do that, for me using Vice Grip Locking needle nose pliers controls the piece with the locking function.



Prior to fitting the valve, lap it in to the bulb to prevent weeping and good shut off action.



Plus, best to do test prior to putting it in the tank, cap off inlet and drain, then fill the bulb with gasoline. Note the level of the gas below the neck, that should stay there, and no weeping around the valve washer/spring side.


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