Wheel lug problem

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Wheel lug problem
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 06:48 am:

Please forgive my asking about a Model A problem, however, I believe this problem could just as well have occurred on my '27 Model "T" depot hack which has wire wheels similar to the Model A:

On my '29 Model A Town Sedan, on a rear brake drum, I am unable to remove a rear wheel because when I try to unloosen one of the wheel lug nuts, instead of the nut unloosening, the lug, or stud, which of course is supposed to be swaged into the brake drum, the lug, or stud, turns with the nut, and therefore, it is impossible to loosen and remove the nut. Of course, this would be an easy "fix" by just tack-welding the head of the stud to the drum, but to do that, I first have to get the drum off! (???)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 07:05 am:

Had this happen on a old 40 ford I had and never got it fixed before I traded it away. At least I traded it for a model A sedan.. I would like to here the answer my self. Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth in Alabama on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 07:49 am:

LOL well there you go Harold. The car is ruined and your best bet is to trade or sell it. Haha just kidding, that just seemed really funny Tim. I'm sure someone on here will know a less "drastic" fix.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Sims--Reed City,Mich. on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 07:51 am:

Remove the drum along with the wheel. Might need to use the knock off style puller.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joseph A. Stearns on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 08:00 am:

Harold, my first thought would be to cut the nut off? Could use a cut-off wheel on a die grinder or with a Little time Dremel tool. Could also use a torch but too much risk of screwing something else up.
Then just purchase a new stud and lug nut. Have fun and be safe, Joe


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 08:46 am:

Harold if you are good with a cutting torch it can be cut off with out hurting wheel. I have cut off a lot of wheels and I have wreaked a lot of them too.something I cared about I would use a die grinder drill bits and a couple hours


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth in Alabama on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 09:00 am:

I don't know Model A's at all but if the hub cap is similar to a T, you could gently pry it off and then just remove the hub with it still attached like Jim says.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 09:11 am:

I just had the same thing happen on my Model A. I used a 3/16" drill to cut the nut off the spinning stud. Drilled a line of holes down each side of the not, the. Drilled parallel to the stud to connect the holes. Really tedious but it worked.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 09:16 am:

I would try Jim's suggestion.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 11:35 am:

You would have to pry off the hub cap first. Then remove the axle nut. You might be able to get a 3 leg wheel puller on if the other studs are long enough, If not you would need a knock off puller. When the hub is off, try grinding a groove into the head of the stud and using a very large screwdriver or perhaps an angle screwdriver(might need to make one) to fit into the slot, If that doesn't work grind off the head and try drilling it out carefully with a drill smaller smaller than the actual diameter of the stud and then with a punch drive it out.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By harold lee cartwright on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 11:54 am:

hold the lug nut with vise grips and drill out the bolt until all the threads appear to be gone knock off the nut with a hammer make sure you drill past the depth of the nut there wont be any bolt left


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 01:44 pm:

Thanks guys,....lots of ideas here, and frankly, I forgot about the "knock-off" type wheel puller. Sometimes that's not easy either, but if that doesn't work, I'll be trying some of you guys other suggestions,.....thanks,.....harold

P.S. Like Rosanna Dana used to say,....."it's always sumth'n", right?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 02:25 pm:

Once you have the wheel & hub off, you can tack weld the stud with just one tack, loosen the nut, and replace the stud. The stud on the rear wheels is a flat-head stud, with a tang on it that fits in a groove machined in the hub to keep it from turning. The front studs are more of a domed head, with a flat that shoulders against a raised area of the front hub. Some Auto machine shops have the swagging tool to tighten the studs, using a hydraulic press. I think the A parts suppliers sell the tool now, but you can't do a real job with just a big hammer, you need the press.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth in Alabama on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 02:40 pm:

Yeah, if it's like the lugs for a T, it takes a 50 ton press. We got up to 20 tons before you could even tell it was deforming the shoulder at all.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donald Conklin on Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 03:05 pm:

If the car runs and the tire holds air, loosen the axle nut then reinstall the cotter pin. Go for a short drive with some moderate stop and starts. This should pop the hub loose. Leave the clutch engaged when you first hit the brakes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Sunday, January 31, 2016 - 06:59 am:

Seth, I traded just days later. I didn't explain that part. I got sweet old sedan that I still have and drive and it's got the best story!! Tim


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