I'd like your opinions here, if you don't mind.
The engine for my speedster project has been built and is ready to go. The mods to the engine are; Chaffins high-er lift cam, .060 removed from Wakesha Ricardo head, .020 overbore with flat top aluminium pistons, aluminium timing gear, OS Chev valves, alloy High Volume intake manifold, Stromberg OF carb, Model A exhaust manifold, Scat stock stroke crank, big end dippers, auto (mechanical) advance distributor, no magneto parts, oil slingers, kevlar band linings, TH clutch and other bits n pieces I've forgotten.
My question is......with a new Brassworks radiator (that I haven't even bought yet), and a squeaky clean water jacket, (got that already) will it require a water pump to keep it cool? Or will the original Thermo Syphon system (which I'm planning to use) be good enough for the extra Umph this thing should produce?
I've already been down the path of installing a water pump in my '21, then learning from my mistake and removing it. So my intention is (definitely) not to start another argument on the pro's and con's of the accessory.
I look forward to your advice.
thanks & Cheers,
Rob, I think the best way to answer that is try it first with out one, just remember a fresh rebuild will run a little hotter until things free up some, run it in by temp gauge, it's no big deal to fit a pump after if you feel it needs it.
Well that's logical.
Why didn't I think of it?
I've got this mindset lately where everything's got to be perfect in theory, between my ears, before I get into the job.
Thanks & Cheers,
You have nothing in your build that'll reduce the efficiency of the original system, so no need for any water pump.
A high compression head may instead reduce the waste heat needed to be cooled off, though a Waukesha is hardly high compression - not even with 0.060 removed. Using the Tulsa Model T club's measurements of 16.6 cu in volume in a Waukesha and the reduction of 1.1 cu in by milling, you'll get 4.3:1 compression compared to 3.8:1 in a std high head. But the squish area design of the Waukesha helps too.
Thomas who has posted here occasionally has put a 1928 Chevy OHV head on his T. The coolant passages gets reduced to tiny holes in the adapter plate, but amazingly enough his cooling still works without any water pump
Rob, as long as you get a flat tube radiator, I don't think you'll have any problems. I have them on both of my T's, and they work great. JMHO Dave