One way to bolt up connecting rod cap

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: One way to bolt up connecting rod cap
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 05:19 pm:

Saw Dan Hatch at Moultrie GA swap meet Friday, sure was wet rainy cold swap. Very few Model T or A parts... but good to see friends.

He was dropping off set of rods for re-babbitt shipment, and these are how the rod caps were fitted! Someone used square nuts as spacers/jam nuts for the extra long odd shaped bolts, all four were mounted like this in the old motor as he took them out :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 05:31 pm:

Isn't it amazing, what a Model T engine will put up with, huh? And I'll bet that engine ran just fine for a long time like that,.....amazing!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Sole - Castelldefels (Spain) on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 - 02:30 pm:

Wish I had those long bolts now - just bolted up a set of newly babbitted rods and the bolts are so short the cotter key hole won't show when dippers are installed.

Previous posts suggest using self locking nuts. Going to see if they can be had locally in order to keep the longest Model T restoration in history from getting any longer :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 - 03:50 pm:

i use 350 chev bolts in my ovarlands, but meybe to long for ts i will check. charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan McEachern on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 - 04:20 pm:

Swappin bolts on newly rebabbited rods is not a real good idea, as it can destroy the cap/rod positioning that was determined when the rod was bored. Changing nuts should be ok though. You can use grade C lock nuts, but Pioneer and ARP sell rod nuts. 12 point nuts from ARP would be easy to obtain from Summit and would be a good choice.


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration