I just moved my 27 around Friday night and Saturday morning when I turned the switch to on it normally would buzz no buzzing noise. I didn't think much about it but I disconnected that battery cables today and charged the battery today. Tonight hooked the battery back up and turned on the key. Still no buzzing!! I didn't try to start it after that. Any ideas on the reason I don't hear the buzzing? I figured someone might have a good idea of where to start looking. Thanks in advance. Tim a
Tim, on my two Truefires, the cam still has to stop in the right spot for there to be any buzzing. Have you hand cranked yours over to see if it buzzes when cranking.
Allan from down under.
Allen, I didn't pull it over with the crank. I am still very new to the Model T world. My experiences have been with Model A s primarily and have enjoyed the A s. Really love these Ts and need any advice I can get. I plan to stick with the Model Ts I thoroughly enjoy this site and the valuable info to us new guys to the hobby. Thanks Tim
I have a true fire on my 1912 barn fresh touring. I hand crank to start and I do get a tone for each cylinder. This noise or tone is produced by a tone generator so you will know if there is spark at each cylinder.
I love my tru fire as it produces really hot spark especially with a 12 volt battery. More often than not due to 2 cylinders being fired at a time I get free starts.
I've had no experience with true fire units, however, I think I remember reading that "the buzz" is just an "add-on" to imitate the sound of the original Model T coils. It just might be that if you can do without the fake "buzz", the true fire unit might just run the engine just fine without it. (???) For what it's worth,.....harold
Check to make sure you are getting good connections. Clean all your connectors ,if all you got are crimpons(dad loved them but never soldered them). after months of playing with mine I finally found a bad ,bottom coil box strip. I finally had to attach a wire directly to the bottom button on the unit and solved the problem. Wires are important. This is my dads wires in pic. To resolve problems and make things bullet proof I rewired the whole car correctly.
Tim..and Harold...yes, 90% of the time Tru Fire won't buzz. Just fuggeddabout it!! I can't even remember the last time I heard mine buzz on my '20. It did maybe half the time when I first bought the car (came already with it-knew nothing about Tru Fire at that time) and since it's been less and less. It runs fine without it.
My 6v Tru Fire stopped buzzing too. It has run good since 2006. Had it in for coil repairs twice. They run best on 12v vs 6v.
Thanks for all the info on the tru fire system. Sometimes you needed to hear it from all of you that i dont need to worry with it. I like the buzz sound but it didn't sound like the factory buzz anyway. I will start her up this weekend and clean all the terminals anyway. I wanted to put fresh engine oil in it before spring anyway!! Thanks so much Tim
Before you start it for the first time, double check the timing with the spark lever fully retarded (up), using the following procedure. You may find that you need to lengthen the rod from the column to the timer. After you adjust the length of the rod, have someone move the spark lever over its full range and make sure that the spark rod doesn't touch and short out any of the timer terminals.
Tim..another thought...from my own experience I've found that T.F. is very susceptible to dirty and or corroded contact points. A good cleaning of everything every two years is advisable. Only takes about an hour to get the box off the firewall and clean everything up and back on. Done it twice now. Really makes a difference.