Is there any Stores/Suppliers out there, who do a 12 volt halogen headlight conversion kit which includes new reflectors or sealed beam as a 2nd choice?
I've looked in a couple of places but so far no luck.
I am looking at doing my headlights and figured I'd see what was available before going in any one direction yet.
My lights need help...
Russell, is your car already converted to 12V? If not, you should just need good reflectors and good wiring/connections/grounds to have very decent lighting.
I just had my some reflectors coated with the aluminum/vacuum process. It was done locally.
My original reflectors are brass with silver finish. They had a little bit of waviness to them and of course it can be seen now that they are recoated with the aluminum, but they turned out quite well.
The reproduction reflectors are steel with chrome finish. They came out more evenly since they have not had the rough handling over so many years as the originals did. The lighting given by the chrome finish was infinitely better than the old worn out silver, but I understand that chrome reflects only 79% of the light of silver or aluminum coatings which is the reason I decided to have them recoated. They look great now with a real mirror finish. I can't wait to try them out.
There is more info on the following thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/487296.html?1413892320
The aluminum/vacuum process Eric talks about can be done here in the States by Uvira Inc in Merlin, OR. Talk to Bill Atwood the owner. I've had both; the re-pop reflectors and and nickel plated reflectors done by him and they came out well. Reflectivity is on par with silver and they never tarnish. Had a set done a year ago and it cost $75 including return shipping. You can get halogen bulbs from most of the vendors. I am running 6 volt/25 watt halogens in my car currently. They draw the same amount of amps (8) as my regular bulbs. The 12 volt variety commonly comes in 35 watts, so I would suspect you would need good wiring and an alternator to feed those.
Yes, I am running 12 volts and hey thanks for the hook up for doing those reflectors, I will be passing right by them in a couple of months so I can drop them in and have them mailed back to me later.
How effective are those 12 volt 35 watt halogen globes, they seem like a good idea???
I can't speak for the 12 volt halogens, but the 6 volt variety with the Uvira reflectors enable me to easily see down the road at night, as well as be seen. There is no difference to speak of in directing the light by switching from Dim to High...at least that I could tell, though. I would estimate they are at least as good as the old sealed beam lamps on low, and maybe better. Maybe others on the Forum have more experience with 6 volt vs. 12 volt halogen bulbs? I'd be interested in the feedback too as I may run 12 volt in my next T.
Check out SpeedwayMotors.com they carry hot rod headlights that might interest you.
Speedway lights are sure the quick and easy way out, but seems they are still just a 12 volt standard globe at $350 a pair.
Are the 12 volt halogen globes sold by Mac's a
hi-low set up, they don't actually say???
Chrome is a terrible reflective surface, in spite of how shiny it looks. It's so bad that, back in the day, it was illegal in most states. That law is probably still on the books too, as most laws that become outdated are just left, and not rescinded! It became outdated about 1941 when sealed beams became the norm.
The aluminized/glass coated reflectors are almost as good as fresh silvered ones, and better than aged silver ones (and by aged, I'm talking just a few months--silver tarnishes!).
I just found this setup during my searching.
Don't know that I will buy one but just for the sake of the thread should other folks read it in the future.
1926-1927 Ford Model T Headlight Conversion To Sealed Beam 8 1/2'' to 7''
PART #: FD-T-2627HLCKIT
Not pretty I am guessing and mostly for hot rods.
Offered by Rodtiques LLC
Hanover, MA 02339
You know, I think I will just go with refacing the reflectors and new halogen globes from Mac's or similar.
Unless you typically use your headlights enough to actually exceed the life of them and have to replace them - why go with halogen? They are just expensive and you gain nothing. Hype sells but a lot of it is BS. Speaking only of technology when it started out which means equal candle power and equal life, halogen bulbs used same filament as regular headlight bulbs typically Tungsten. They have the same life expectancy and same initial briteness as the cheap original type IF designed to the same current level and life expectancy. When vendors hype that Halogens are twice as brite it is because they are typically using a higher CP (candle power) halogen bulb compared to a lower CP "regular" bulb. It seems they can avoid real comparisons by not making Halogens in exact same CP as regular bulbs. Halogens that I have seen when they were brighter were also higher current draw so either the CP is higher or the life expectancy is shorter or somebody is fibbing. Halogen is a good technology but brings NOTHING to the party when you use them on antique cars unless you drive at night enough to actually compare briteness at END-of-Life. Then the Halogen is 10% brighter and only because the halogen gas inside the bulb blocks the carbon emission from the filament to the inside glass of the bulb. Typical cheap bulbs lose about 10% of their briteness at end of life because carbon emission coats the inside of the glass which might be over a thousand hours while a halogen does not do that. Initial comparison of briteness is the same unless you up the CP of one bulb versus the other. For the increased price of Halogen you could probably buy a box full of regular bulbs and change them every other year and pocket the savings which you could use on the soon to be used LED headlights which are not that far off. Typically sold Halogen bulbs are way too much current draw for the T electrical system but soon you will realize you have gone the wrong way when LED,s will light up your road probably at about 15% of the current that regular lights use and your alternator conversion that you will be adding right after the Halogen conversion will also need to go backwards to generator most likely or you will then have a 750 watt power source in a car that only needs about 25 watts if it runs on magneto. One thing I will say about halogens is that since they clearly were the right choice for modern cars over "standard" bulbs the ongoing improvement in bulbs was pretty much exclusively with Halogens and older bulbs ceased to be improved so Halogens are fine bulbs and if they were as cheap as the old fashioned bulbs and didn't tax the electrical system of the T I would not be so opposed to them for my T.
If you need more lights for sure you need more of them in the rear than front. In a T you are way more likely to get rear ended than for someone to hit you head on because they said they can't see your headlights. Light up the rear end of your T a bunch if you want to with LED's since they add almost nothing to the charge drain and resilver your front reflectors for now and you will have tons of light now and even more when the LED setups show up which I don't think is that far away. England has them on modern cars on the street already I think. Maybe somebody from over there will read this and comment.
I want to emphasize that I am not critical of Halogen technology per se but just that it is way way oversold for antique cars and for all the effort and cost they are not of value unless you drive at night a lot. First you need to have already restored your reflectors properly. Also your car's electrical system should be restored and working properly. The delay in LED headlights I suspect is simply because LED's are so darned directional and headlights can't simply be made of clusters aimed in just any direction as they can be for rear end - somewhat.
Just my .02
I was under the impression that the halogen bulbs crated more heat than conventional bulbs and that early on, many were converting their daily driver cars to halogen bulbs and melting the plastic reflectors or lenses and turning the reflectors brown.
I wouldn't think any extra heat would be a problem in the Model T buckers and metal reflectors, but I'd look into it.
And, where does it stop? Zenon? LED? Neon bulbs under the running boards?
I've tried both; Mazda bulbs and 25 watt halogen with the Uvira reflectors. The Halogens are brighter and I can see the road clearer. The amp draw (4 amps each) is the same. My wiring harness has been replaced so there's no problem handling the load. It would be interesting to see a lumens comparison of both both bulb types, but I don't have that equipment. While my tails/brakes are LED already, I would sure like to see 6 volt LED headlights as well. Unfortunately they are not available yet. Until then, I'll keep my current 25 watt 6 volt halogen headlight bulbs.
Did you try the Mazda bulb also with the Uvira reflectors or was the Halogen/Uvira setup the final setup on your car. I wasn't sure from your post if you just compared the Mazda with existing reflectors against the new setup with the Uvira/Halogen. With Uvira reflectors and 8 amps of total draw on your system, it sounds like you have a very good system. I wondered if you might have the bulb numbers (Mazda and Halogen) for both bulbs mentioned since I get a lot of calls asking for info on brighter headlights and I want to stay abreast of whatever is going on but I am enthusiastic about LED headlights since they are in actual use in some places and I see them as being a great benefit for the driver T and likely a great "final solution" for brighter lights that a T can live with.
John, I do know that I ordered the halogen bulbs from Langs. I'll venture out to the deep freezer that is my garage this time of year in the morning and dig those old bulbs out of my stash of electrical stuff. Yes I did test both types of bulbs with the same Uvira reflectors on the road. I keep my generator set at putting out a maximum of 12 amps and I am using one of your regulators. My other loads besides the headlights are .24 amps (combined) for LED tails and stops, along with 2.3 amps powering electronic coils. My ammeter generally reads maybe a half an amp to the charge side at road speed with the entire electrical load.
The headlight bulbs were Westinghouse 1000 32/32CP bulbs.