Removing rear cross member

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Removing rear cross member
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob middleton on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 12:49 pm:

Advice befor I dive in on removing rear cross member to install brackets from bill bowen antique motor sports


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Carlton on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 03:59 pm:

I've never done this on a T, but all frame work is basically the same. Jig your frame first. Most concrete floors are not level so keep in mind that 4 jack stands don't automatically make it the same.

If the rear of the frame is completely exposed, I would level right to left (front and rear of car) by supporting the frame(not suspension), then take diagonal measurements. (Don't know your resources but I use a digital level when it counts).

Diagonal measurements don't lie on a fully level frame. If the frame is good, measurements and eyeballing a horizon line so to speak with the next parallel object in the frame will match.

Tack weld steel stock above and below the frame from left to right before you cut. This will help keep your width and vertical frame angles correct.

In my roadster thread I tack weld supports on the body itself because to do it right, it HAS to be square.

There's a frame I'm cutting up because the previous owner didn't jig it. It's absolutely ruined.

Welding warps even frames, so take your time. Hope that helps!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 04:18 pm:

Jim, pretty well summed it up, I would just add, measure once, measure twice, and measure again. Donnie Brown ...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob middleton on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 07:10 pm:

Guys yes measure level but oncenter the I need remove the rear cross member witch is riveted and cut the rails 2-3/8" short any advice on best way
To cut the rails and derivatives the member


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier Savannah Tn. on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 07:31 pm:

Bob, you will most likely have to grind the rivet heads off then drill out the center, I have never had much luck in just driving them out as they are swelled into the frame on installation. I have lately been using the de walt brand cutoff wheels on my angle grinder with much success. If you make up a jig to hold the grinder square to the cut it will make life much easier. KGB


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Carlton on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 08:13 pm:

On cutting, I tape over the frame with the green 3m tape. Mark the proposed cut line, using a small carpenters triangle with the lip(for lack of better term) trace around frame. Then used 3" pneumatic cutoff wheel on one side of the line, air sand or file smooth. Heck, a hacksaw would work too.

At this point you have floppy rails. I highly recommend tack welded or c clamped steel between rails before cutting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dale Peterson College Place, WA on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 09:51 pm:

Frame rivets are not that difficult to remove. I center punch them, then use a drill bit the size of the rivet or a little larger. When you are through the head, it will spin up the bit. Then use a drift to drive it out. If it won't budge, drill through the rivet to the depth of the other head with a bit just a little smaller than the rivet. It will then always pop right out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob middleton on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 10:15 pm:

I have the rails parallel and level
To each other aND also made a reference mark on each rail
I get rear member 95% off just wondering if I should mount in the motor and rearend assy with spring
Make sure my math is on
Im proby over thinking it but don't want screw up either


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Carlton on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 11:00 pm:

Not sure of your set up Bob, but as long as you get good math in the end, that's all that counts. You could build a small home made gantry with plumb Bob points to check before and after on rear crossmember or, you can have stanchions from the ground up butting against the back and sides of the rear crossmember.

You said no engine and rear? If it's a bare frame, a solid bench or table would work great for that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob middleton on Sunday, February 14, 2016 - 11:42 pm:

Jim no I saying should I mount the engine and rear
Other measurement is the axels front rear each side and an X as well


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Carlton on Monday, February 15, 2016 - 01:43 am:

I wish I could come out and help, Bob. Everyone around me watches football or plays video games. This sounds like a fun project.

I wouldn't mount the engine, but I would mount/bolt a piece of steel stock or empty pan in place of the rear engine mounts between the frame. you could tack weld a diagonal brace from there, back to where I suggested to place another brace before the cut. It would be nice to mount that frame flat on a table, bench, etc. Then you could mount uprights, and even pins which go up through the cross member holes for reference. There's about 3,498 ways to do it. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob middleton on Monday, February 15, 2016 - 11:42 pm:

As much flex give in a T frame has
Im thinking square even I should be fine


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