I am on the road just about every day.
I drive an F350 CC Dually w/ a 7.3 PSD & a manual ZF five speed tranny - usually I am towing 10,000 pounds.
I have tried oil additives over the years along with several brands and oil weight combinations.
Recently I ran across independent oil testing data performed & published by an individual:
Although lengthy & arduous it was fascinating to read.
The oil additive that consistently seemed to have proven measured results was Oil Extreme:
I called & talked with the owner Dan - then ordered a 16 ounce bottle.
For my truck I chose this oil from the test data link above:
113. 5W40 MOBIL 1 TURBO DIESEL TRUCK synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4 and ACEA E7 = 74,312 psi
zinc = 1211 ppm
phos = 1168 ppm
moly = 2 ppm
I have been running Mobil 1 synthetic oil filters since they came out a couple years ago.
My engine takes 15 quarts so I added the recommended 15 ounces.
Then I drove a few hundred miles ....
I noticed an immediate gain in horsepower - fuel economy - performance.
I will be adding Oil Extreme to my ZF manual transmission & my 4:10 rear differential.
I noticed an immediate gain in horsepower - fuel economy - performance.
By the way, lubricants that contain "moly" are not good for the Model T. While molybdenum itself is not magnetic, it has a high affinity for free iron which IS MAGNETIC. All the moly and free iron will accumulate on the magnets and mag coils.
A very good article with great informations and specs hard to get
Thank you Jim
Rather than condemn ...
Why don't you try to educate yourself ... ?
Read the oil test data link which was undertaken & performed by an independent engineer who receives no compensation - endorsement - funding of any type ...
Then read what Oil Extreme actually does ....
The oil test data is rather long & tedious to go thru but he started in 2013 & I like the oil rankings.
By reading the oil test data I found my way to Oil Extreme ...
This is a small business in Wisconsin.
I am not being compensated in any manner - just trying to share information I believe might be beneficial.
I was prepared to be underwhelmed. However, after reading the full article, it confirms a lot of what I had been told by petroleum engineers and seen in my own experience. To have the oils quantified by wear protection is very interesting, particularly the obvious - thicker oil is not better oil.
A couple of oils really stand out for both Model T and every day car use.
#8 overall seems like a real bargain:
5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (gold bottle) = 113,377 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This was the latest current version of this oil when tested at the end of 2015. The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.
However, I went on to also test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. But, this oil only had a very small 3.7% drop in capability. And even at that elevated temperature, it produced an extremely impressive 109,211 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category. This is the best performing motor oil I have ever tested, with regard to maintaining its wear protection capability in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category, at such a high temperature. No other oil in my testing has been able to achieve that.
I didn't condemn anything! Except, perhaps, make fun of your proclamation that it's stronger, faster and cheaper to use without the slightest Nat's hair of evidence other than it feels good. I made the comparison to that of a placebo that cures an illness while being nothing but a sugar pill. But then again, I feel the same way about MMO.
I don't car what you guys think,.....a clean car really does run better!
Any information generally is useful ....
This is the first oil additive that I have used that has actually performed as advertised ...
I talked w/ Dan the owner for several minutes on the phone at Oil Extreme before I placed my order.
I run the same dually as you Jim and I always take excellent care of my trucks. I appreciate your message and knowledge. Coming from a man who puts mega-miles on their trucks, I will take your advise without a second thought, Thanks Jim
It's always been my feeling that the guys who built the machine already did the research as to what makes their product work to its best. There has always been snake oils out there and there always will be some guy standing on a box holding some kind snake oil bottle promising that it will save you.. I bought my 2006 Dodge Cummins truck off the showroom floor. I have never added anything other than what the manufacturer recommends and she runs as good today as it did when I bought it.
Some folks thought K & N air filters were " snake oil " when they first came out ....
They have proven to increase performance over manufacturer designed air intake systems ...
Interestingly enough - there is test data from K & N Engineering (the same company) for Oil Extreme at the bottom of this link:
I tend to keep an open mind & try to learn new & useful things ....
I try to keep an open mind on things as well, But then I tend to at things with the glass half empty. I don't know of any product manufacturer that will promote there product with a negative outlook and if they do its because of a team of highly paid psychologist that will insure that the wording still makes their product look good. They will do their best to make sure that the sun will always shine on there product and the dark clouds hang over their competition. Now, If there was an objective independent study done by an outside source that had no personal gain to the product being studied then I would be willing to look into to it. My truck means lot to me, She hauls my T, She cleans my yard, pulls any trailer I can hook to it, And I tend to hold my head just a little higher when Im driving her down the road. Over the years other than normal filters and lubricants changes, I've replaced the front brakes, One injector and a set of tires. Today I think it would cost around $60,000 to replace her with a like truck with all the factory installed bells and whistles I have in my truck.. Far more than that $10.00 bottle of snake oil that might destroy her. I got a feeling that there is a team of lawyers that will prove that it was not there product that ruined your baby. But then to each there own, If it works for you then by all means, enjoy.
Back in the early 90s I went to the Americade motorcycle event in Lake George NY. While I was there I went to a seminar about some kind of oil they were selling, They showed everything from scientific studies to videos of the micro decay of what a conventional oil will do to your bike. I was amazed at the amount of guys that bought there expensive oil. Some guys were so taken with the presentation that they pulled there bikes on the side of the road and dumped there old oil out on the ground and put in that new fangled oil before that dangerous oil that some of them had driven many hundreds of miles with destroyed there engines. My old bike was a 1978 XS1100 Yamaha and I ran just what the manufacturer told me to run. I still have that bike today and she still runs as good today as the day I drove her from the dealership. Just saying,,,,,
When claims of better fuel economy are made, I always get suspicious. The car companies are under huge pressure to achieve better fuel economy. A product that actually delivers on this goal, simply by pouring it in an existing crankcase, with zero engine modifications, would be worth tens of millions of dollars to them. Look at the VW cheating scandal for just a small example of how precious MPG ratings are. Hard to believe such a product exists that the car companies know nothing about.
Here's my story.
I had an '83 Chevy 6.2 diesel. It finally broke the crank at 331000 miles. It still had the original injectors, but the injection pump had been replaced about 80000 miles. As the mileage increased, it became harder to start. I replace glow plugs as needed. It helped, but still started hard in the winter. A friend with a Cummins/Dodge said he'd always used the Lucus Fuel Conditioner. What can it hurt? Soon, I noticed it was starting better and seemed to be running smoother. I keep track of my mileage on a spreadsheet. It shows that my mileage before the Lucas was 16-18 mpg. After the Lucas it was 20-22 mpg. Wow, good stuff. No question, it helped in several respects. Soooo, I'm wondering why. In my mind, the high detergent of the Lucas cleaned the injectors that had never been changed. The injection was just in a stream instead of the mist/fog that should have been. It was missing the glow plugs when starting, but ran decent after it was started.
My conclusions: It definitely helped in every respect. Should I keep using it. Not in my book. Once the injectors were cleaned there would be little benefit. On the other hand, it doesn't cost much. To each his own. That's just my story.
FWIW, I put over a million miles on a "Real Cummins" (855cid)/Freightliner :-) and never added anything summer or winter with no problems.
Freighter Jim, I know you have a lot more experience than I would ever have, but I have to respectfully disagree with you on the K&N filters. Around here in our agriculture based economy, several guys have tried them. My late friend/mentor old me about a local farmer that was bragging about how good his K&N filter was. My friend asked him to open the hood and take the filter off of the intake. This was a diesel pickup back about ten years or so. When he removed the intake, my friend reached in and wiped his finger inside the throttle body and it was COVERED with oily dirt. The farmer 'bout crapped his pants.
Another time, I was at my local mechanic's shop getting an inspection done a couple of years ago, when a guy came in off of the interstate with a diesel pickup that would barely run. He had a K&N filter on it too. There was so much oil and dirt in the throttle body, it messed up the sensors. All they had to do was clean it up, and it ran fine. These are just a couple of instances from around here. I put the K&N filters in the same class as the "Turbo" swirl intake "thingies" that have been marketed since the Model T era. Does anyone really think that if an air filter, or a "tornado" type add on, would add to performance, and/or mileage, that the manufacture's would not install them from the factory when all of them are competing for mileage and performance? That being said, obviously, there are certain areas that can be improved, depending on what the consumer wants. Sure, the K&N filters may show an increase in performance, but at what cost? Dirt and oil being sucked up into an engine ain't good. Sorry Jim, I still think they are "snake oil". Absolutely no disrespect intended, just my observations over the last 60 years. I'm climbing down off of my soapbox now. Dave
This is my fifth F350 CC Diesel Dually truck ....
I am a Ford Man Tried & True ...
The previous F350 I had was a one owner truck I bought out of Michigan that had 148K original miles.
I test drove it before purchase - it seemed to run fine.
300 miles down the road - the " newly installed " turbo from the previous owner disintegrated.
I had to disconnect the turbo - fashion a bypass out of spare radiator hoses - to limp into a nearby town ...
I was down a few days while I ordered & replaced the blown turbo myself.
Then I started dropping injectors ...
I ended up replacing all (8) " newly installed " in injectors ...
As it turns out - the farmer I bought the truck from did not change the oil as required.
Dirty oil kills a diesel engine faster than anything else .....
The truck I have now has a HUGE cone shaped paper filter that the previous owner installed - he bought it from NAPA.
If I can find a replacement one - I will keep it - it seems to run fine
All my other trucks either had K & N air filters or I added them.
They come pre-oiled.
After use & subject to operating conditions - you have to clean them & re-oil them accordingly.
If you clean them incorrectly - you can destroy the filter element.
If you do not re-oil them - you can allow dirt into the engine.
K & N air filters - when used as intended and designed - allow more clean air into an engine than an OEM air filter.
Changing to an after market air filter or air intake system might up grade horse power & performance. Changing your oil will not.
Aw heck... I just throw some Marvel Mystery Oil my tank every few fill-up's and throw the rest in the crankcase. The ol' 86 F250 is coming up on 475,000 miles and still chugging along fine.
Sorry- but this thread seems to be slowing down. I figured I'd stir it up a bit
Do you folks notice all this is concerning "Ford" trucks. Us Chevy owners don't have those kind of problems. Some you can teach,some you can show, and the others just have to P-- on the electric fence.(G)
It only took 20 posts before a Chebby guy said that he felt left out because they don't have problems like Ford
I feel fortunate,not left out.As long as I have my Chevy,I know I can go get parts for my fords.
As long as I have a Model T I can drive a Ford to get parts for my Fords. LOL.
Heck Jack, I mentioned Chevy....but then my wife is driving a Ford. I also have a few more Fords.....and a Dodge.....and a Diamond Reo....and a few White Freightliners......and a....never mind.
I average 300 miles driven in a day x 5 days a week = 1500 miles a week
After 2500 miles driven on Mobil1 5/40 Turbo Diesel Oil w/ Mobil 1 synthetic oil
filter & 15 ounces of Extreme Diesel:
Consistent 1 mpg fuel increase which is 10% for me
I drained my ZF tranny & added the recommended 2 ounces to it yesterday
It seems to promote smoother shifting
I will service my differential again & add 2-3 ounces to the 70/140 Royal Purple gear oil I run
I am ordering the diesel fuel additive next week ...
I am pleased ...
I ran across this @ http://www.oilextreme.com/arie_news.html
Interesting because he was my neighbor when he won the 1990 Indy 500