I always see this word beign thrown around but have no idea what it is. Is it a modern timer system for the T or something? My grandfather and I run original ford Timers or te occasional NOS tiger timer.
Here's a link where you can read all about it.
And then never never mention it again
That's a joke by the way. It's a subject that people have strong opinions about, so any time there's a post about it, we get a long long thread that leads everyone back to the positions they held before the thread was started......
LOL Bob...that's no fun!
And then never never mention it again :-) :-) :-)
HA HA HA .. I love sarcasm and dry humor!
so wait, it IS a real thing then huh? How does that work? Idk what to think about an electronic timer personally; think I'll stick with a ford factory one or a new day.
It appears to be a modern contact-less replacement for the standard timer. Go to http://modeltetimer.com/E-TimerFeatures.html for pictures and more information.
Some people love them, some folks don't. The pro's claim they make driving the Model T easier and perform better. The cons dislike the "unnecessary modernization" of the Model T's time-proven ignition system. I see the greatest advantage of them in helping get cars on the road with inoperable magnetos that owner's just don't have the time, money, facilities, or expertise to repair. That being said, they're not cheap either. Ultimately as the owner/operator of your car, it is YOUR decision to stay with the original ignition system, or utilize one of the alternatives out there.
Just go to the following page Matthew and read all the literature in the links at the bottom of the page. It's an amazing timer and it you're into solving puzzles - the circuit board contains some non-electronic nomenclature!
Okay, please excuse my ignorance on the e-timer. From what I understand if one goes this way, what one has to do is remove the old timer and replace it with the e-timer and that's it? No rewiring/rerouting wires? Can it run on mags?
Or is there more to the story?
Does one have to 'wire' the timer?
Does it still run through the coils?
Or just post a link that explains all this!
A highly recommended accessory in my opinion.
I'm not sure why, but some folk seem to have an intense dislike for the E-Timer, yet remain strangely silent when it comes to distributors and True-Fires.
In fact, of all the modern ignition accessories, the E-Timer is closest to the original because it's just a drop in replacement for the mechanical timer, and even uses the casing of a mechanical timer.
While the high cost might be off putting, it's worth it because of the far better timing accuracy - which stays accurate, and with no maintenance. The proof is in the performance; smoother, quieter, and improved low end torque.
Robert, to answer your questions, it uses the same wiring as the original, and the same coils. For E-Timer use, the coil points are bridged out - which means you don't have to worry about points adjustment or capacitor condition. In fact you don't even need points on the coils. Convenient if you don't want to or can't rebuild coils.
However, if you set the coils on an ECCT for equal firing time, you can use the coils without bridging the points. This is how I use it.
The E-Timer works on DC only, not from the magneto unless you have a suitable a small lead acid battery and light bulb/diode charging circuit.
(Message edited by 26tourer on February 18, 2016)
I have one, performance is fantastic.
It runs on battery, not magneto.
The only modification required is a small jumper wire on each coil to bypass the points, and a modern seal rather than felt on the front of the camshaft. It takes about 15 minutes to install if your front plate is centered perfectly on the camshaft. If it's not centered (mine wasn't) it takes a little more effort, but it's a good idea to center it with any timer.
Never mind! Just went to the site and read the instructions...
Thanks for the info, I like the fact that if you want you can still use the coils... But as a newbee I have another question... How do you set the coils on an ecct for equal firing time?
But wasn't the great thing about the Model T Ford the ignition system and the the design of the magneto. Does disabling the magneto to use an etimer take away from the uniqueness of the Model T ignition?
George, I'd say yes. When I get my chassis up and running or if I acquire my grandfather's Runabout as is in the works right now I plan to start on battery and run on mag, as Henry intended. Just gives a uniqueness to the driving experience that I want to enjoy and share with my passengers. The car sounds different running mag vs battery system too I noticed. That mag sound is just something so uniquely T that I can't shake it
Please explain disabling the magneto George. I'm curious.
Matthew, if I might chime in, I'd certainly like to recommend a TW timer over anything else. I've got 3 of 'em now and love the way they run. Garnet, when they say "disable" I'm pretty sure all it means is to disconnect the wire coming from the mag when using an e-timer.
Robert, the ECCT is an electronic instrument used to adjust Model T coils. It works on the basis that each coil should take exactly the same time to fire. It also shows up any double sparking that might occur due to improper coil adjustment.
Somewhat coincidentally, the ECCT was designed by Mike Kossor, who also created the E-Timer. Again, like the E-Timer it's a great product that works as it should.
If the E-Timer is used with coils where the points are not bridged, there's a risk that dwell time will depend on coil adjustment (which may not be correct) and thus negate one of the advantages of using it.
Therefore, if the coils are to be used with points operational, it's essential they be timed correctly - which is where the ECCT comes in. Other coil testers are completely unsuitable for this task.
In short, unless you're very familiar with how the coils operate, it's best to stick to the instructions provided with the E-Timer which advise that the coil points be bridged with the supplied fusible links. The E-Timer then takes over the points function, as well as the complete ignition timing.
Everyone that has driven a lot of miles with an E Timer loves them. It is maintenance free and will never need any adjustment. It operates only on DC voltage. My operating magneto charges my battery which is connected to the timer thru the coils.
It is the ultimate in a modern electronic ignition system but still looks and sounds exactly like the original but performs much better as shown on dyno testing.
It's the very best solution for any car that doesn't have an operating mag instead of converting to distributor which draws away from an original appearance.
Like it was mentioned above some guys just can't stand the name or thought but ask anyone that has one if they would trade it for anything else.
That pretty much proves how good of a product this timer is!
To say the magneto is "disabled" is misleading.
The magneto still functions, it just doesn't have anything to do unless you use it to charge a battery or have magneto lights.
""Please explain disabling the magneto George. I'm curious.""
I made my statement based on this -
""I have one, performance is fantastic. It runs on battery, not magneto. (Derek Kiefer - Mantorville, MN)""
When the car was designed, the magneto was for ignition. Electric lights did not come in until later. Lighting was acetylene or lamp oil. There was no battery in the system for assisting starting and powering the ignition until later --(yes Ford engineers did have a provision for four to 6 dry cells for powering the coils for starting -- this was the reason for a magneto. The magneto provided a source of electricity to operate the coils. After 1917-1918 with the introduction of a generator and starter and a wet battery made starting easier, but and this is a big but -- the car still operated best with the magneto. Of course if problems developed the battery was the redundant source of power for the ignition. As stated with the etimer, the magneto is disabled. Most who have a car after 1917/18 and use an etimer do not use it for lights because of the battery and the generator. A note the magneto was not used to charge the battery. When the wire to the magneto is disconnected or switched from the operations of the coil when an etimer is used - the magneto is disabled.
Ya Dennis you are right.
My Mag is still working great and not "disabled" makes plenty of juice for my battery, lights and also the ignition system although it is not directly connected to it as we all know.
It is also a 1 or 2 minute switch to return back to the original system.
PS George, You are Right about the T ignition system...
That's why it's important to me to maintain that in my car. I do not like to see dist's in stock cars. That makes them look just like a modern to lookers.
I am considering an E-timer or similar for one of my engines only because it will have a Rajo C35 head, balanced crank, higher compression and "may" not run as well with the limited spark advance of the original system. I believe most OHV T's are running distributors or auxiliary magneto's. the stock system is limited to 22.5 degrees between each spark advance position unless running on battery and relying on the timer to be your distributor. The other cars are all going to remain stock ignition.
I'd have to say it would take a little more than 2 minutes. It takes more than that to just swap the timer, although I think that was meant as an exaggeration.
All that aside, the important thing is what to do to the coils. I SERIOUSLY doubt one could take a properly adjusted set of coils, loosen the nuts on the points, install the jumpers, then reverse this process without disturbing the adjustment of the points. And I don't mean the gap that some seem to think is so all fire important. I'm talking about the tension in the lower point spring and the upper cushion spring. I haven't looked at a set of E-Timer instructions in a long time, but they used to say something about adjusting the bridge nut to get the coils to buzz, if you wanted to still hear them. I don't know if they are still saying to do that or not, but no way is THAT coil going to still be in proper adjustment when swapping back! I find it hard to believe you would ever achieve the original performance of a properly tuned system if you messed with those points without putting the coils back into a HHCT, Strobospark, or ECCT.
Hal, I have installed and removed the jumpers on my coils multiple times. My Touring has E-timer, and my TT has New-Day timer with functioning magneto. I have swapped my best set of professionally rebuilt coils between them 3 times.
I recently got a Strobo-Spark, and those coils still test perfectly even though the nuts have been loosened and tightened back up at least 6 times that I can remember.
I don't disturb the nuts when I attach the jumper around it.
It's almost a mute point since it looks like they are all sold out except maybe one at Snyders or another vendor.
Bird Haven in Iowa has them.
Interestingly, I have never seen an E-timer for sale by a disgruntled buyer or user.
The standard E-timer case actually contains a small digital computer that monitors your engine RPM and adjusts the spark advance for maximum engine performance, along with digital switches to turn on the coils and other features.
All this and more with everything hidden in an original timer case.
There is a built in tachometer to provide the RPM value.
There is also an option to disable the automatic spark advance feature for the real purist, but testing has shown a definite performance increase with the automatic setting in use.
You still need a good set of coils, with good coils properly adjusted for maximum performance, as the e-timer only turns them on at the exact time required, as related to the piston travel.
"It's like déjà vu all over again."