Yes I have the MTFCA book, I have the old closed spool, and setting up the thrust bearing, either the original 15 balls or the new caged balls and race. The bearing cup I think is useable (can't buy them)no matter which I try there is still a lot of clearance at the snap ring, could be .025-.030, doesn't seem right to me. I do have a new 2588 spacer washer in place. Could the cup race be that worn? It looks good, no grooves or pitting. This is going together on a new drive shaft, inner sleeve and roller bearing. When I took this rear diff. apart the pinion roller bearing was destroyed on the pinion end, I think that is where the trouble started. What keeps the pinion gear from tearing up the caged roller bearing? I'm so uncomfortable about the looks of this I'm now considering the new "adjustable pinion bearing" Just an added note, the old drive shaft and sleeve are badly worn, sleeve ID way over size and the drive shaft way under, I cant imagine what caused this. I don't want to do this again! This is in my '25 coupe, I didn't know it was the wrong year until I pulled it out of the car. This car has not been together or on the road for many many years.
Thomas, I would suggest you install the fun projects bearing. It is much better than the original set up and is much easier to install.
What Stephan said.
I have ordered the fun projects bearing, had a long talk with builder, and ordered more parts from Lang's
When you get the Fun Projects kit, read and follow the directions carefully. The original Woodruff key needs to be cut shorter to match the diagram in the directions. It cuts easily using a Dremel tool.
The collar and set screw come very close to the inside of the driveshaft tube, make sure that you do what is necessary to provide proper clearance so that the set screw doesn't rub the inside of the tube.
Thomas, The original thrust bearings work very well. The only hard part about using original parts is that the sleeve is difficult to install correctly. The retaining ring of the early type thrust bearing serves no functional purpose in the function of the bearing. It just keeps the bearing balls from falling out. when properly assembled the Drive Shaft sleeve pushes the ball bearings against the caged race keeping the bearing tight with no end play. As long as the race and bearings show no damage they should be fine. The new bearing assembly works fine also, but be sure to not trust the bearing lock ring to guarantee no drive shaft end play. First set the lock ring then set drive shaft end play the way you normally do by reaming the drive shaft bushing for 0.002 in clearance. This will guarantee end play even if the lock ring comes loose which they do.
I use the original Ford set up in both of my '13 Fords, and have never had an issue with either. One car has over 50,000 miles on it. So, I have to agree with Glen, they work very well.