I received the replacement hogshead back from the machine shop.
The bead blasted and magnaflux. I want to make sure that everything was good with it.
Now there seems to be thin oil all over it. I was thinking of getting warm water and dish soap and scrub it.
Blow dry, tape and paint with rust-oleum.
I have a can of gloss black. Am I going in the right direction or am I about to make a big mistake?
One more question.
Has anybody ever used nuts and safety nuts instead of the steel pins?
I clean stuff like that with lacquer thinner.
What kind of black you use is a matter of personal taste. For engines and other chassis parts I prefer satin finish Rustoleum. I believe it's closer to the original appearance. I use glossy for wheels and body parts.
For nuts I stay with the original castle type, but I use stainless cotter pins.
If it's a driver I use lock washers like Ford did in 26 or 27. MY OP is you can use original bolts and castle nuts or regular your choice with lock washers on the top side. I have found after everything gets settled in some nuts need a bit of tightening up anyway even with lock washers. Self locking type nuts would be over kill. The engines I have been doing are drivers so I use lock washers on them. Saves me and the customers time and money.
2X on the lacquer thinner.
I thought this was going to be another Richard Eagle thread. I was already picturing in my mind what it would look like when I clicked on it.
if you want it to last have it powder coated . charley
Richard did post this "hogs head" picture awhile back
Actually, rattle cans work rather well for paint durability...I recently repainted my engine because I had it out rebuilding the magneto because a couple of those bloody little plates decided to take a holiday round inside my engine. I decided to touch up the paint a wee bit though...painted it the same color I originally did, back in 1978...light grey. I like light grey because it shows up oil any leaks that may happen (I'm never left guessing on where any leak is coming from).
Powder paint is much overrated to my mind you have the hassles of masking areas you don't want that stuff in or on (including the holes) and it's more expense than is necessary and the results are about the same as a rattle can anyway...so why bother?
martin! have you ever used powder coat??? the only way you get it off is to burn it off.i had the hole running gear done about $400.00 pan& hogs head ever thing. just tell them where you dont want it they take care of it. charley
p.s. they sand blasted it to.charley
Yes, my car's running boards and radiator shell are both powder coated. I had it put on my those two pieces because I wanted the toughest finish I could get where people constantly step in and out of the car and up front where it gets hit with small rocks and stuff...that stuff is really tough...rubs out well too can't really tell it from the acrylic lacquer I used on the rest of the car.
But I just think it's a bit too expensive (and extravagant) to do the engine in, rattle cans work well there and it's easy to touch it up. But I can see how it would be good on frames, the front axle and the radius rods and Model A wheels too. Stuff that's down where it's going to pick up a lot of road debris and get hit with dirt and small rocks, that I can see, but an entire engine...sorry no.
most rattle can stuff will wash off with gas and oil so you keep touching up!!! charley
Just wanted to give you’ll an update.
I have washed, taped and painted the hogshead.
I have been powder coating all of my black parts in my model A s and it is true it's easier to block passages than to clean them when possible. It is gas resistant and wipes off and looks new again. I also powder coat all of the pedals in the car and running boards,wheels,engine pans ect. They show no wear after several years of driving. Getting ready to get some parts coated for the 26 T. Just my though Tim