6 months ago when I took my Maxwell chassis for it's first ride in decades it ran flawlessly. I brought it back in my garage and proceeded to replace the incorrect carb, finish the body and wire it for stoplights and directional. This has been the hardest luck car I've ever owned or worked on in over 50 years and at least 100 vehicles. I swear it's haunted and doesn't want to be revived. Took it out yesterday and the carb which just came back performing perfectly on another Maxwell now drips out the throat even when the fuel is shutoff but runs fine. The right rear brake is now dragging, the JUST restored honeycomb radiator has a minute crack in the bottom tank AND it is now running retarded. I swear if I had it insured I'd seriously consider letting the NEW carb drip burn it down and send this thing back to hell where it came from. The carb I won't even fool with as I has a second one ready to go. Brake shouldn't be too hard to fix although it was perfect last trip and everything has already been restored. The radiator is now off and will now go back to the radiator shop and I pray the repair won't open up new troubles with this original core. This will be the third time I have had to CUT $21.00 worth of new hose with less than an hour off this radiator for fear of damaging the core because the hoses were welded on. First time I put them on dry, second time I greased them with chassis grease and still couldn't remove them without cutting them. Does anyone have an idea what to use to prevent the hoses from seizing on to the radiator and engine?
Here's where I need advice from someone better versed in auto electrics than I am. Since I had shut this off 6 months ago running perfectly and now I could not advance it far enough to run correctly I assumed it was a linkage problem to the distributor. I just got done checking all the linkage and nothing has moved. Internally it has steel gears and I'm pretty sure none of that has changed. Before I tear the whole ignition apart, is there any component that could have failed or is failing that could give this running retarded symptom?
Howard, I am NOT an electrical type guy but here is my $.02 worth and it is highly overrated on anything electrical--but I did have a somewhat similar problem with a friends Model T a few years back. It turned out to be a faulty Amp meter that had an intermittent issue. It would run just fine and the next time I used it would hardly even run. Hope this helps. Also be sure to clean and check all connections
Thanks Joseph, I have a replacement ammeter in better condition and you may have just given me the incentive to change it.
Howard, I can see by not working on my Maxwell for a couple of years that I have gotten ahead of you. Your not encouraging me.
Is the leaking carburetor a K-D? I don't have much wisdom but the fact that it has run well before means you are on the right track. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.
I'll bet things will look better tomorrow.
Best of Luck
Hey Rich, hope I don't discourage you but I've never seen anything like this. Yes it is a K D and all the carburetor experts said it was junk and not to run it. I have a hard time believing Maxwell used it on cars and trucks from 1915 till 1921 and many surviving Maxwell have K D carbs so they can't be that bad. I tried till I gave up to get one to run on my car. I sent four to a fellow Maxwell owner who had 2 trucks running them successfully. He checked everything out, ran them on his trucks with no problems and returned 2 to me. The first test drive 6 months ago one of these performed flawlessly and yesterday leaks like a sieve!!
As a retired Electrical Engineer I KNOW that electrics NEVER fail, it is always something mechanical. Even when a PC board catches fire, things overheat, wires burn out or other problems, they are ALL mechanical... So I can assure you the problem is MECHANICAL.
Is the point gap still correct, are you sure? That is most common hidden change that is hard to locate. Of course the linkage can move. how do you know it has not slipped?
That is an oxymoron, something has changed. I assure you it is not electrical..... Why not just correct it and see if it moves again?
What part of "I just got done checking all the linkage and nothing has moved." don't you understand??
Correct what?? See if the car moves? yes just not correctly.
Howard - How do you know nothing has moved?
I understand that is your opinion and you are welcome to it but...... If nothing has moved, the timing would still be correct. Are you suggesting that a mechanical system, such as timing rods and cams, can change when nothing moves?
My suggestion is to check the timing to ensure that it really has retarded. Just fix it and move on.
After checking your profile, I understand where your arrogant attitude comes from,
"Half the population have less than average intelligence, scary.... "
nice personal quote, says a lot about you. I know nothing has moved because the spark lever has limits as does the distributor and nothing in between has moved or gotten out of adjustment, something anyone with less than average intelligence could figure out. As my less than average intelligence father used to say "if you can't hear a retarded engine you have no business operating one"
Richard, I believe I've figured out what happened to the K D carb. I was studying a breakdown to figure out what would allow a slow drip from the throat and it can't be a needle & seat problem or float setting because it is only dripping and not flooding. That being said the only other way to get fuel in the throat is an internal crack in the inner wall of the float chamber which surrounds the throat or more likely the 100 year old solder joint has failed on the needle valve that runs right through the outer & inner walls of the float chamber and into the carb throat. This would be just an age problem and not a fault of the K D carb.
Howard, how is it going today? I'm no carburetor guy but I cleaned up my K-D and it works great on my car. I wish I had some good suggestions. I was kidding you earlier. Glad to see your progress. I hope one of the gurus here can help with your questions.
Thanks for all the help and info.
We were typing at the same time. Thanks for the update.
I see someone tries to help and you make it a personal issue.
Burger, help I appreciate, being told to just fix it and move on and criticism of my ability to trouble shoot, not so much. Tell me what part of his or your post was helpful?
Howard, I just reread your question and the parameters you you defined for an answer (a closed question... "is there"...) and I can give you the only answer that fits: No.
Now, if you are open to the idea that there may be other factors that might mimic a retarded ignition system I may have some suggestions.
What can I tell you John?
Hi Howard. I would not use chassis grease (or any oil-based product) on a radiator hose. If you are having difficulty installing the hose, use a silicon spray. Petroleum will attack the hoses unless you have found neoprene radiator hoses.
Howard, as for the radiator hose problem, I use plain old RTV on the hose fittings. Smear a bit on the fittings, and if there aren't too many pits, push/twist the hose on to make sure the RTV has been worked into any pits, then clamp the hose snugly until the RTV has set up, then, tighten it down. Just make sure that you don't use too much RTV so that it won't get into the cooling system. If in doubt, use two or three applications on the fittings before you install the hose so as not to get a big glob that could be a problem. This will seal any imperfections, and will still let the hose be removed easily because it doesn't stick to the RTV. Works for me. JMHO. Dave
Thanks Dave, that was the kind of help I was hoping for. I appreciate you sharing that with me.