I continue to work on the restoration of my car. I search in all the subjects in the forum but I did find how to fix the steering box on the column with the rivets . I need a special tool? Mine is too longer and I am never in front of the rivet!
Thank you for your help.
Brice, I ended up making a bucking bar out of a piece of steel bar stock that matched the round head of the rivet as best I could, then put it in a vise to drive the rivet. Make sure your rivets are dead soft by heating them cherry red. You can quench in water if you want or let them cool in air - with brass and copper the heat removes residiual stresses and the quench is irrelevant. After I drove my rivets with a hammer and punch, I machined the upset end inside the gearbox so that the steering shaft would clear.
Originally, the gearbox and the end piece (where the nuts are in your photo) were tinned so that they could be heated up after riveting to melt the solder together. This seals the gearbox so no grease leaks out and soils the driver's clothes. I didn't go for the solder but used wicking grade Loctite instead (because it seemed easier) and still have no leaks.
This is definitely a job where you need a helper!
Thank you Bill for your answer. I would like to melt the solder after the rivets too.
Do you have pictures of your tool, please?
If you haven't done so, the slot for the set screw should be at 12 o'clock.
Thank you. I did not know that the place of the set screw was always the same. I chose this to have the best position between the steering box and the column.
Looking at the photo, you have the base riveted to the column. You need to rivet the base to the gear box before you install the assembly in the column. The two rivets through the column tube are the last thing that is installed.
It is super easy to install the six rivets holding the base to the gear box when the column is out of the way.
Doesn't look like he ever had it off the column.
Yes, I never took off the column. I think I understand, the support for the levers is not the same part of the base like here:
Do you think I have to put out the 2 rivets to do easier this job? But it is too bad to put out these 2 beautiful rivets...
Bill, or somebody else have picture of the tool to do that without take appart the 2 rivets?
To rivet it the way it is, you would have to make special tools to buck the rivets with. It depends how badly you want to preserve those 2 "beautiful" rivets.
You can have two beautiful rivets and four so - so rivets and two bad rivets. Or you can take out the other two rivets and have all good rivets.
I follow your advice Royce : I taked appart the two beautiful rivets!
But it is not so easy to mount the other one to have beautiful head rivets. My tool is metric and the rivets in inch.
I adjusted my tie rod ball socket and the ball was too big!! So I made thin parts to adjust. What solution you have with this problem?
you should put on the iron cap not brass, Bob
Bob, is the issue strength? Which forces me to ask a dumb question. Were original caps cast or forged? I've always assumed the latter.
Brice, your shims seem like a good solution, also providing a nice way to adjust the caps for wear. I'm about to rebuild a front end for my '16 and I now plan to duplicate your solution. Thank you.
That brass cap photo raises a question. With thread in the drag link and the nut acting as a locknut, the bolt can be parked anywhere, leaving the cap not engaged on the end of the drag link. Is this how they were, so that wear could be taken up? It would make rapid assembly on the line a little haphazard.
Allan from down under.
The shims are in place.
@Allan : I agree with thread and nut the drag link acting as a locknut. But Mechanically, it is better when the surface are in contact and the ball is free.
If somebody is interested by this solution I could send the numerical drawing in .dxf for water jet cut or laser cut.
@Bob : you mean the nuts are not at the correct side?