Yesterday's drum was for practice. Today I balanced the one that's going in my car.
I applied the solder on both sides.
One thing I noticed in watching the video is what shaky old person I've become.
Steve, what a great solution..Thanks. Nothing wrong with being shaky.
Rather than add solder, why not remove some of the flash in the holes on the drum opposite of where you added weight?
Nice job. Neat project.
Where did you get the tinning butter and solder?
The flux is from Johnson. It's called Tin-Ezy. With shipping the four pounds cost $49.88. Not cheap, but a lot less expensive than other sources I found.
The solder is from Eastwood. Four sticks with shipping: $20.91
Food grade lye from Amazon was $19.49.
Joe, most of the flash was on the light side of the drum. I dislike the idea of removing any structural material from these drums. They're none too sturdy to begin with.
Steve, question for you. I am sure you were concerned about the possibility of the solder dislodging from the drum in operation. What is your thinking on this?
Yes, I was. Two things persuaded me to try this.
I learned about it from posts by Dean Yoder. I think Dean knows what he's doing.
Recently I was on the phone with Tom Nolte, who does the radiators for Rob's pre-T cars. When I told him what I was doing, and what I was using to do it, he said I should have no problem with the solder sticking. I figure an ace radiator man with years of experience knows what will stick.
(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on February 24, 2016)
Solder inside drums works just fine- been doing that for 25 years-at least. Trick is to get a good tinning job before adding the actual weight. if the solder is beaded up around the edge, you need to re-tin the area. I prefer to keep the weight on the rib rather than the inside of the rim, but that's just me. Nice job Steve-