Is there a "perfect mouse trap" design for a floor mobile engine dolly ??? something with 3 casters, a sketch, drawing or blueprint of the ultimate engine floor dolly and a sketch maybe of a 'T" engine conversion plate for a engine stand to include materials needed to build such items. I'll bet there are alotta people interested in making a good one, your input will be greatly appreciated guys. Thank You......
Langs, Snyders, Macs, and 3 or 4 parts sellers will sell you a plate to bolt on your model t motor to use on a standard engine stand. I've been using them for years.
I should add that I modified my engine stand so the upright stands square to the floor so I can put the flywheel and transmission on and off without having to cock it to an awkward angle to drop the transmission down on the crankshaft flange when setting the magneto gap.
that's a damn good idea Mike, thanks
for engine storage an old shopping cart bottom cut off works good and the roller are heavy duty
Here are a few engine stands I have saved over the years from the forum. The first 5 are standard horizontal engine stands, while the last one is a vertical engine stand for holding the engine upright for installing the heavy transmission and adjusting the magneto gap. Jim Patrick
Hey Jim, this is great stuff, everyone including myself appreciate your input, this is really neat. If you can't figure these out, you're in a world a "crap".
I added some scrap lumber to some cheap Harbor Freight furniture dollies.
They're not very useful for working on the engine, but great for keeping them on wheels so they're easy to move.
I also have a run stand so I can test run an engine before putting it in a car.
Whatever design you use, remember that almost 1/2 the weight of the full assembly sits behind the motor mount arms, (i.e. the transmission). If I'm pushing along an engine on my engine dolly, with the trans end pointing forward, and I hit a seam in the driveway or a little pebble, the whole mess wants to up-end. Place the wheels on the trans end several inches back from the location of the pan arms you'll be happy you did.
Note: Regarding the above vertical upright transmission installation engine stand. The engine block is bolted to the upright support using 4 oil pan installation bolts and nuts. 2 located at the top most pan bolt holes and 2 located at the midway point between the top and the bottom most pan bolt holes.
When building out of plywood, make sure the legs of the upright support are shorter than the block so that it will not interfere with the installation of the magneto coil ring.
Jim, those are some cool stands, but, with all due respect, the one made out of galvanized pipe scares the crap out of me. Threaded pipe has only about 1/2 of the wall thickness of the original pipe, maybe less, depending on how far in it is screwed into the fittings. They can break off VERY easily compared to rest of the pipe. Also, those fittings are malleable iron, not nearly as strong as the Schedule 80(forged steel) fittings. JMHO. Dave
No doubt about it. "Perfect" to me is one you can go from vertical to horizontal easily and doesn't interfere a bit with the work that needs to be done.
Great advice to keep in mind, David. Safety should always be the number one priority.
the pipe one scares me because the fittings unscrew!
David's worry is valid; Finding Schedule 80 pipe and fittings is difficult nowadays. But schedule 80 pipe is twice as thick as 40, so it should do the job!
Man, you guys sure came up with a lot of good information, that we all really appreciate, alotta good ideas !!! Think I'm going to run a separate thread on "How to build a Model "T" rotissary", just seems like that item would be extremely usefull. Later guys............