My car had the battery installed under the back seat. I bought the correct battery holder and I am moving it to it's correct place, under the rear floor.
While removing this rear floor, I see that in the former restoration, they cut a nice board of plywood, painted it black, and attached it with what I believe are too many screws!
Question here is: how is this rear floor supposed to be fixed to the car? I am I supposed to remove it completely in order to service the battery? (seems kind of impractical).
The battery door typically just lays in the floor.That is if it's built right.
Do you mean there should be a door over the battery so not to lift the entire rear floor?
I'm not sure about the tourings,best ask somebody who owns one.The sedans had a small door.
The rear floor on a (My '25) Touring is a one piece wooden panel made out of 4 slats that just rest on the metal floor edges.
It should not be screwed down. Should have a "finger" hole in it to help with removal.
you just lift out the whole panel to access the battery.
My '23 Touring is setup the same as Ronald's.
But to be clear, the "floorboard" is actually made up of 4 individual boards not attached to each other that rest in place.
My original rear floor board is made up of 4 individual boards with two small cross slats fastened to the bottom of them to create a one piece floor panel and not 4 individual boards.
Thanks for the responses. Glad to know I don't need to screw the thing... makes sense now.
The slats run longitudinally or perpendicularly to the car? Were they supposed to be attached to each other?
My 23 Touring was restored in the early 60's and looks to be fairly original. My rear floorboard is made up of 3 boards about 5/8" thick, and nailed to 3 pieces underneath. Just sits on the metal angle by the door sills.
Slats run perpendicular.
My original floor has connected slats on my 1925.
Dan said his 1923 had 4 separate slats.
Guess you could do it either way.
Connected you have more support and less likely to warp.
Mine is just like Dan's except 4 boards.
Misunderstood you Dan. Thought you said separate slats.
To be "correct" they should be made out of recycled packing crates.
Here we go....
Thank you all for the information! I will make a floor according to the descriptions and pics.
By looking at the second pic posted by Dan, above, it would seem that one of the boards (the one showing the wood color and very little black paint) is not part of the floor "lid", but placed on the car, and the lid would be the 3 boards painted black, with the hole to put your finger into and lift it on it's center and forward most part.
Am I correct? Or should the lid be all the four wood boards attached to form a full floor unit?
The floor boards on my 25 Touring not only have cleats on the bottom but also Edge Splines. All made from solid wood boards--No plywood. And they are less than 5/8" thick. No more than 9/16. The rear lifts by the finger hole as a single unit.
The part with very little black paint is a sheet metal piece that has a 90 degree bend in it. It is 3 1/2" wide at the floor, and goes up 3" and is under the piece that heads at a 45 degree angle under the front seat. There is a thin piece of wood under the floor part of the metal to make this stiffer under your feet. If you need more pictures let me know.
I have the original angled pieces for the supports for my floor in the rear, but I replaced them with modern angle steel. I just marked and drilled new holes and screwed the new pieces into place.
Thanks! It is now clear enough!
I already made my floor and I am in the process of adjusting fit. I still need to make the hole to lift the floor. It would seem to be about an inch wide or so... any particular measurements?
Also, in Dan's car, it seems to go towards the front of the car. Is this always so?
On my '23 Touring, the floorboard is plywood, so it is obviously not original. However, I notice that the hole it sits in is not exactly square. It's more of a parallelogram. Right now I can't remember whether the front or back is smaller, but one is. That means that the floorboard, if it fits tightly, can only go in one way. You'll get to know whether the finger hole goes forward or back.
The floorboard in both my Tourings ('23 and '25) was covered by a rubber floor mat, so I don't think the look of the boards, or the location of the finger hole, is of any real importance. Only you will ever see it.
I think that I have seen some sketches of the rear floorboard (with dimensions) for a '23 Touring somewhere, but where I can not remember. Anyone?
"The floorboard in both my Tourings ('23 and '25) was covered by a rubber floor mat, so I don't think the look of the boards, or the location of the finger hole, is of any real importance. Only you will ever see it."
Yes, Peter, I also got the rubber floor mat... but I always say it takes almost the same effort to do something correctly or incorrectly... so better find out in advance if I need to do it somehow.
Right now, my new floor board fits perfectly, but I haven't done the hole yet, hoping to find if it is supposed to go towards the front or back and it's approximate size.
The hole is 1" in diameter and the center is 12 1/4" from the right side (of the car) and 2" from the front. My floor only fits in one way as the center strip on the bottom is cut a little shorter to clear the running board brace.
Thank you very much, Dan. That is exactly how I will do it.
This is the kind of discussion that benefits all of us. The thickness and location and size of the finger hole in the floorboard is important to those who wish to get it right. I think there might be variations in the number of boards used, as long as the finished size came out right. Great post.
That's right! I couldn't value more the help of the forum. Great people around here!