Does the drive shaft bushing need to be faced if using the Fun Project spool? Not the x y adjustable. MG
Possibly, if the U-joint won't go down on the driveshaft far enough to be able to install the pin.
The fun projects spool uses a locking collar on the drive shaft to hold the DS in place. It does not require the U-joint pin. How ever I personally do install it as a safety measure. The pin no longer is used to keep the pinion gear in proper placement with the ring gear when using the Fun Projects spool. BTW the Fun Projects spool is very well made and is a major improvement over the original Ford design.
Yes. The easy way, if you have access to a lathe, turn it down to a light press fit. Install then figure how much to take off the face. Remove, face, clean every thing and install with sleeve lock. Before you install last time, depending on fit of drive shaft to it, make sure there is a grease groove and it's lined up with the grease hole in the tube. Groove only needs to go back far enough to line up with grease hole. Don't forget to drill a hole for the grease fitting, which can be done after installed.
One other thing, don't FORGET to grease it! been there.
I think those instructions have been updated. (?) The U joint needs to be pinned to keep the correct center in relation to the angle of the engine and drive shaft. If it moved to far to the front it could cause a bind in it's rotation.
Once the bushing is installed, that is it. There are facing tools available for that job. Face only enough to be able to put the pin through the u-joint, and as mentioned above grease it good, and make sure the slot is on top. I have never used anything other than original old stock babbit bushings, and have NEVER had a problem. I have always used Ford bearings and thrust washers as original too, and have not had a problem. No need for a Fun Projects kit.
"...thrust washers as original..."
Most of us do not have a supple of the original babbitt drive shaft bearings and many of the cutters when trying to face the brass don't work very well. It can be done with the facing tools sold now for the job but is very slow and labor intensive. The ones sold back in the day WERE made for the babbitt bushing not the harder brass.
I have never understood the logic behind sticking with the old bearing setup V.S. the new Fun Project bearing. "Some" purists demand that you use exactly what Henry did even though the new bearing is far superior, and you can't even tell from the outside that something is amiss. I want my car to look exactly the way Henry envisioned it, but a little bit of modern technology on the inside makes for a car that i can drive without worrying about a failure that could have possibly been resolved, if i just took the initiative...Its like wearing a Timex watch with the guts of a Rolex.
What does the use of the modern bearings at the pinon have to do with the question about the bushing? There is nothing wrong with using the original setup or the modern bearings. That is your choice but is not what this question is about.
The bushing needs to be faced to allow the use of the pin and maintain the proper geometry of the U-joint. You could face the bushing a bit more then needed. While the collar at the bearing should hold the assemble in position it could come loose. The U-joint pined to the shaft would prevent the pinion from going back too far and taking out the ring gear etc.
My disclaimer; I have used both the modern pinion bearing setup and the replacement coil box material and like them both. I think the original parts work fine and a lot has to do with how you are going to use the car and what you want to do.
Made a driver and a cutter to face the bushing, you are welcome to use. 903 824 1949
If you've done a dozen or more T axles and used both "stock Ford" & "Fun Projects" setups, then you will probably develop a preference for using the "Fun Projects" pinion bearing... Especially if it is going in a car that will see lots of miles. The FP setup is only a couple bucks more than the stock parts you usually need to replace PLUS it saves a few labor hours. PLUS you can face enough off the bushing prior to installation that you don't need to face/fit it in the tube because you don't need the thrust surface anymore.
As far as using a NOS FORD babbitt driveshaft bushing... I've currently got four of them sitting on the window sill in the shop that look as good as the day they left the factory and as far as I'm concerned they are curiosity items. I prefer bronze.
Thank you for all the information! Bob, I will send a pm Thank you very much!!!! And thanks to the MTFCA Family! MG
My post should read thrust bearing, not thrust washer. Sorry for the error.
By the way, I believe this discussion is about the drive shaft assembly, not the differential.
No facing tool? I used a half in. drive socket that just fit the face of the bushing,( reverse the socket) glued a piece of emery cloth to it, added an extension then a 1/4 inch bolt chucked to a drill and in a few seconds had a perfect fit and nice finish. It took longer to peen the damn pin tight ! Fun Products is the way to go, added one spool gasket and the gear mesh was good, the new thrust washers were perfect, no sanding (I know, Larry) By the way, I beat on the old drive shaft bush and it would not budge but it did need faced to get the pin in the ujoint.
This subject has been beat to death on the forum but I will say it again. Don't trust the lock ring that comes with the spool assembly. They can come loose and then you lose your end play adjustment which will allow the pinion to move back and ride hard on the ring gear. Always set up Drive Shaft end play in the normal way by facing the Drive Shaft bushing for about 0.002 clearance to the U=Joint. This will guarantee the proper end play even if the lock ring comes loose and the lock ring will be less likely to come loose because it has less of a load on it..