I need to replace the pulley on my 1915. I was told that at least some of the aluminum replacement pulleys are not deep enough to allow the crank to go around the pin. I called a dealer to order one and asked if this were true. He was not aware of the problem but agreed to check. He called back and said it was true and would try to figure out what could be done. So, I'm looking for an original small pulley. The one I have is loose and the pin holes have elongated. Anyone have and extra that is in goo shape?
If you buy the repro aluminum small pulley, you can chuck it in a lathe, and machine the lips off it so it matches your original pulley. Then it will fit. That's about it.
At one time I think someone was making some good billet reproductions of the stock pulleys but they were around $100 each...
The repro aluminum small pulley, otherwise can only be installed or removed with the engine pan off.
It takes more than machining the lip. You have to machine the inner depth so the crank pawl will engage the pin fully. There's no clearance behind the pin to allow full engagement.
Ken, I agree with you. There isn't enough metal to make it work. How many of these have been sold to people with early cars (no starter) and the dealers don't know they won't work?? I guess I still need to find some one with an original that will part with it.
I had one on my '15, and it worked fine. It fit in the narrow-nosed pan, and the crank worked as it should. That was about 10 years ago, so maybe they have changed in that time. (I never tried taking it off or on while the engine was on the pan.)
Go with Adam's suggestion on the billet pulley reproduction.... I have one and it's dimensions are accurate, fit the crank snug, and runs true. About $100, but worth the quality.
A little further info to this tale. The reason I am changing the pulley is that upon getting this car, I found that the crank pawl seemed to slip off the pin when I tried to start the car. I use the quarter turn technique on all the cranking cars I have. I hurt the back of my hand (it looked like a catchers mitt) after the crank slipped three times and I whacked the head light. You may say, 'three times??'. Yes, I guess I'm a slow learner!! I looked at the pawl of the crank and saw that it was warn down to the point that there was hardly any hook to the crank pawl. So I got a new one and quickly realized that the pulley was very loose and the pin holes were elongated. So, now that I have a new ratchet I want to improve the pulley so I can preserve what is left to the back of my hand. I don't feel that the new aluminum pulley will be satisfactory. The distributor agrees with me on not being able the gain enough distance for the pawl to secure itself on the pin. Possibly some of the older versions of the aluminum pulley had more 'meat' to work with. I may have to get one of the new original type but I was hoping someone had a good usable one to sell.
I bought one several years ago and had this problem, so I sent it back. I took my old one with the wallowed out hole, drilled a new hole at 90 degrees to the old one, and it has been fine ever since.
When I restored the coupe back in 1976, there were not as many new parts available an I thought I couldn't afford them when they were available. So I fixed what I had. The pulley was damaged so I braized the pin hole and the part where it goes onto the crank. After a little work, who remembers, it went on and has stayed there since. So why not just fix the existing pulley. Mind you I like the idea of drilling a new hole for the pin.
How loose is your pulley on the crank shaft? If it not too loose you could tighten it up with some shim stock around the crankshaft. Don't use an aluminum soda can, it'll come loose again. On my coupe I also bent the pin very slightly in the middle. If your pulley is really loose I would get the new original style pulley.
Drilling new hole for the pin seems like a great idea. Will brass shim stock wear out. Can you get steel shim stock? Someone told me that heating and plunging into cold water could shrink the pulley enough.
Rebuild the pulley you have.
I have good used small pulleys or NOS if you decide to stay with the stock pulley.
I've done what Herm shows several times and it works quite well.
Herm, Great work.
If it one of our pulleys we will be happy to replace it with a good one. We make one with lips and one without lips. They both work good. The one without lips can be installed without removing the pan.
Thanks everyone for great suggestions. I took the pulley to a friends shop who has a torch set up. I heated the pulley three times and plunged it into water each time. The result was that I was able to shrink enough to get a tight fit. I then drilled a new pin hole to avoid the elongated holes. Works great. How long will it last? I don't know but if it fails, Glen Chaffin says he can fix me up with a new one anytime. Thanks again, Dick C.