1926 roadster spark lever on the column will not stay in place. Is there a way to tighten this or some other fix?
The simplistic way is to buy or make wood blocks that wedge the spark and throttle rods as you tighten the blocks together. These are placed on the exposed area in the engine compartment. The vendors sell them but you can make them they are very simple to make. Most likely the springs on the rods have lost their strength and need to be replaced.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3524-25T.aspx Is the item number from one of the vendors
I used a boot lace wrapped around the rods. Been on the car for probable 5 years and has worked fine. I did refile the notches on the quadrant too.
It may be possible to add bend in the levers too, so they push down on the quadrant and get some friction. The original springs on the engine side of the firewall should give some pull to the levers - check so everything is in order, then there should be no need for add on helper springs or blocks.
really neat to see the fixes and original boxes
Western Spring Manufacturing in Hugo, MN. would make new springs from a sample sent to them! Very reasonable prices...I know Joe the owner likes to do custom springs
Jay you always have the neatest stuff, thanks for sharing.
The springs are available but it will require you to dismantle the steering column and if you're going that far you might as well order all the stuff you need to rebuild it. You most likely don't want to do it again.
Jay I was referring to having new springs made that are the aftermarket repair!
Hi Greg, I was referring to Roger's post about the springs pulling on the rods, as you know many of the columns that have been in the weather have very weak springs, but to your point I bet there would be a niche market for the ones Jay posted. I know I'd buy some.
Both levers on my 27TT didn't contact the quadrants very well, so I just got out my 10 inch parallel jaw left hand monkey wrench. I set the jaws just wide enough to go over the quadrants. Setting both levers up I slightly bent the bottoms of the quadrants up. Moving the levers full down I slightly bent the tops of the quadrants up. A couple small adjustments took care of the problem.
My quadrant plates are just thin metal, not cast, so there was no danger of breaking them off. An 8 inch Crescent wrench is just as good, giving good sensitivity so you don't get carried away.
In my case the monkey wrench was at hand after "adjusting" my wiper blade tension.
On a 26 you can take a crescent wrench and bend the quadrant slightly up and this will help. The usual causes are worn grooves on the quadrant which can be filed to be a bit deeper, and/or the spring at the bottom of the steering column outer cover where it is attached to the firewall. That spring is also harder to fix, because you will need to remove the lever at the bottom of the column and remove the steering wheel so you can pull the spark rod back toward the driver and replace the spring.
On a 26 you can take a crescent wrench and bend the quadrant slightly up and this will help. The usual causes are worn grooves on the quadrant which can be filed to be a bit deeper, and/or the spring at the bottom of the steering column outer cover where it is attached to the firewall. That spring is also harder to fix, because you will need to remove the lever at the bottom of the column and remove the steering wheel so you can pull the spark rod back toward the driver and replace the spring. So try working on the quadrant first.
The quadrant was practically smooth on my 27. After I lubed it to get rid of the scratch/squeak noise it made when opening the throttle, engine vibration would close the throttle while driving. The bottom side of the levers were worn flat so I ended up replacing the rods and the quadrant. Feeling the clicking as the levers moved over the quadrant was a new sensation for me and the nickel plated levers were sure pretty to look at.