Quick body mount question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Quick body mount question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Carlton on Monday, February 29, 2016 - 11:23 am:

I'm doing some mockup this morning. I'm putting a '26 on an early frame.

From end of frame to body center is 36 1/4"

Drawing shows 38 1/4" and here is a mock-up pic at 38 1/4". I can't go any further back or I lose hood alignment.

I have frames here that are all different...ugh! Look at the rear wheel centered in the rear quarter. Good enough?

Mount


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, February 29, 2016 - 11:54 am:

Here is John Regans 1909-13 frame drawing. It covers the body mounting locations for all Model T frames up through 1925: http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/FPIframe.pdf

Here's a 1926/27 frame drawing: http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1926-27.pdf

There are more body mounting brackets on a 26/27 frame - and they're all in different positions from the earlier frames. Even the firewall bracket holes are moved. (but you can leave the firewall brackets off a 26/27 body, the other eight body mount locations are sufficient - and you can always drill new holes and bolt the brackets in better positions (as I've had to do, I've also got a '26/'27 runabout body on an earlier '25 frame)

Ford had the rear wheel slightly forward in the rear wheelhousing like many other early cars, don't really know why? If you make a modified car you may adjust it to your own liking. Clayton Paddison lowered his 26 runabout with an old speedster lowering trick by moving the rear axle 2-1/2" behind the rear spring. Then he moved the body 2" to the rear and used a '28-'29 Model A Ford hood that is exactly 2" longer than the T hood. There are always ways to make it fit :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Carlton on Monday, February 29, 2016 - 12:13 pm:

That helps immensely, Roger. I was just always taught that you have to make it perfect, and it's just not that way in the T world.

If Ford had the wheels slightly forward, that's good enough for me. That gives me room and I can always move the radiator back a 1/2" if I need to!

Thanks, just needed to hear it from someone else.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Clayton Paddison on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 06:04 pm:

Jim,

This is how I lowered my car. I did a mild update to the old Laural/Roof style drop and a variation of several styles I merged in my design for the front drop.

The front axle was pushed forward 2-3/4"..



The rear axle was pushed back 3-1/2" if I remember correctly...





To compensate for the stretch, I did slide the body back almost 3 inches to line up the wheel arches...then installed a '28-'29 Model A hood as Roger states as it was the perfect shape and size.

it gives a great stance and profile.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 07:32 pm:

Jim,

If you don't build it to fit an existing hood, Rootlieb will also make you a custom hood. And if you only want the top piece -- that should be easier / cost less but they can also make the entire hood any way you want. They already have the Model T radiator size and the 1926-27 Model T cowl size. How long would you like it to be?

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Clayton Paddison on Tuesday, August 23, 2016 - 11:02 am:

Hap,

What does a custom hood run from Rootlieb? I might end up going that route rather then sectioning an A hood.


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