The wood kits for sale I have found do not include the wood piece between the running board and it's brace.
I am STILL unable to search the FORUM with either Firefox or Internet Explorer so I started a thread.
Does anyone have a picture and/or the dimensions of these blocks?
Thanks in advance!
I use Google to search the forum, just include "mtfca" in the search string. For example, to look for running board blocks, type:
running board blocks mtfca
Anyway, the vendors carry the blocks:
1 1/4" X 9/16" X 9"
You guys are AWESOME!!!
I did your google search.
WHAT was I thinking??
Just a heads up...I have found I had to change the thickness on some of the wood mounts to get the best fit.
If we were not interested in being 100 percent Model T perfect and wanted a nice, stable platform under our running boards, is there any logic in making one, large piece of wood to use in place of the two blocks?
Say 9" x 9/16" x the length from just outside each brace?
Would that create any problems other than moisture retention?
Also, I think the Improved Car running boards are wider than the earlier cars??
Robert, this is just my opinion and should mean nothing to anyone else. If it was extra running board support needed then I would consider running the blocks parallel to the running boards. They could be wider and made of a good stiff wood such as Ash or Hickory. I think having one large piece under the running board would be overkill and make for a moisture trap that could cause problems down the road. Jim, I have seen different sized blocks on both the improved and earlier cars. They are so old and decayed its hard for me to say what they started out being as far as dimensions.
I'm using plastic composition decking material to make the hood shelf, running board and body blocks for my '26. The cut surfaces take & hold paint and I believe it will retain less moisture and not swell/shrink and rot like wood. And I may be wrong to try this. respectfully, jb
Now the wheels are turning. I've got the Trex type material on my deck and like the way it performs. Haven't painted it, though. But it is not structural strength, but for blocks and shelves, probably great. It is different dimensions than lumber, so just remember that when mixing and matching.
But making the running board blocks running the length of the running boards instead of the width is interesting, but I'm sure how much strength I'd get out of two 1x2's running 24" or so long. Seems like I still get a lot of bounce out of them.
Perhaps a single board with weep holes in it and some tar paper between board and running board metal?
Robert, you could always notch the parallel boards and extend them beyond the brackets. That way you could have a wider thicker area for support. It might be a good idea in my case because each year I seem to get fatter, uglier and older....
I would NOT place tarpaper or any similar material between metal and the substructure, it will trap moisture and rust the steel. Wood by itself is bad enough in this regard. Consider stiffening the running board with 3/4" angle along the edges on the underside. Connect the two angles with flat stock at the point where boards bolt to frame, and use a suitably altered support block to maintain correct RB height. respectfully, jb
The angle iron is a great idea. All my sides are wrinkled anyway, so straightening them and welding some support rods will help. Also the roughly shaped carriage bolt squares would have the support of the bar stock and I can cut the wood blocks to the correct height.
TO THE WELDER!!!
Ford specified pine if I remember correctly. I use pressure treated pine scraps. Works great.