Too make a short story long, I started with a speedster that had a 26/27 engine with starter and generator on a 1915 frame. No hood or body, just radiator, shell and cowl with fuel tank.
I'm restocreating a WWI Light patrol Vehicle and would like to use what I got. I picked up some 1915 parts including front fenders, wooden cowl, hood former, hood and brass radiator.
I'm almost done withe the engine and have modified it based on direction from forum members to run the brass radiator and fan with the lower head water outlet and correct fan blade pully and bracket.
But today I played around with the hoods and former and it feeels AWFULLY tight running a 1915 hood around a 26/27 engine with starter. I like the look of running just the hood top without the sides an perhpas some leather straps.
But, I'm wondering if this hood and radiator and former will work around the engine.
Got to be someone else out there that has a 15 era T with the improved engine in it. Is this gonna work? What other things do I need to be prepared to address? Floorboards come to mind.
I'll hang up and listen. Thanks in advance.
Shouldn't be a problem, many an brass T are running a starter hogs head with out changing any frame or body parts.
The only problem you may come across is fitting the head and radiator together if you are running a brass radiator. May have to tweak your fan and pulley setup some.
oops, just re read that bit! Sounds like you should be fine then.
I'm running a 26 engine with starter in my 15 speedster. No problems .
I am using a 1924 engine in my 1914 touring, see my profile for a picture. The only REAL problem is mounting the starter bolts as they are behind the firewall supports. If you are not careful you end up with two bolt heads back to back. I solved this by welding a threaded plate under the the top rail of the chassis so I could get the bolts held on the starter side. Some folks weld nuts under there while others struggle.....
I'm beginning to feel warm and fuzzy about this project coming together. Think I've addressed the cooling fan issues, waiting for fan belt to arrive as I'm running the large crankshaft pully on a low brass radiator set up. May have to install some sort of idler if I can't get a small enough belt, or replace the pully.
Glad to hear I'm not the only improved motor on an earlier chassis out there.
Well, a break in the weather and I started test fitting some body parts to the frame. Have to research if the running boards with the Ford script running width wise are the same length as the correct 15 ones should be. 15 fenders on the front fender irons appear to be long to connect correctly to the running boards, but it may be just tweeking.
But with the brass radiator laying in place, the 26/27 headlights on the bar will not work at all. The fender irons are at the same level as the radiator and the light bar will not connect to them and the inner fender shiield stops before the irons, so no place to attach the light bar.
So, off to look for some correct lights and mounting stems to go into the fender irons.
I have a 26 engine in my 15 (I bought it that way), so it should work.
Ernie, are you running the engine mounted coil box under a brass raddiator hood? Or the firewall mounted coil box?
My engine mounted coil box sits very high on the head and I'm interested to know if it will fit under a low radiator brass mount hood.
I am using the firewall mounted box.
Yes, it looks like both guys running this set up are using distributors and coil boxes on the firewall and dash, so my engine mounted coil box may be an issue with a hood.
I can always move the coil box to the dash and look more 15 correct, but I've already got it wired up and in place. So have to wait to put the engine in the frame and see.
Right now the radiator hose is a little taller than the coil box, so I may be OK.
Thanks to all.
Played around and did some test fitting only. Not all the hardware is corrent, just holding things in place to judge how to proceed.
Photos to follow this afternoon for those intersted, but it looks like this may fit.
Well, for future generations, the 1915 hood fits on the brass radiator and the hoses seem to connect, although I have not filled with fluid yet. Feels like a few inches from the top of the coil box mounted on the head to the bottom of the hood.
So I'm hoping this will all work out when final assembly begins.
Make sure the radiator is on the leather blocks, and the hood shelves and fenders raise the sides of the hood also. You'll need to fit the wood firewall first to get it all lined up properly.
I'm presuming mount the firewall and radiator and then block up the hood shelves to fit the gap once the hood is level and plumb.
I just wanted to see if the hood would clear the coil box at this time. I knew the radiator had leather pads in the mounting kit, I was unaware of any significant blocks going between the radiator and frame. That would make my clearance even higher, but might cause some strain on the upper radiaotor hose fitting.
TO THE BOOK!
Fitting the nuts on the firewall brackets is fun.... I weld the nuts to the underside of the top of the chassis. Just look at your second picture and imagine how to get at the two nuts on the starter side.
Robert, it's coming together nicely!