My car would run good for maybe 10 to 20 miles then start missing on Magneto. Came home from a trip on Saturday and started missing close to home. I switched it to battery and still did not seem right. Things seemed kind of crunchy when turning it over with the hand crank. I took off the transmission inspection plate and found some copper strap pieces. Took the hogshead off yesterday.
Who rewinds magneto coils?
What are my options for the crankshaft end play? I see Lang's has a crankshaft shim (3030SHIM).I know I need to take the engine and transmission apart to clean out all of the copper chips. Did not want to rebuild the engine just yet, as it is not burning oil.
You can replace the rear main cap when you have the engine out and that would be the best bet for correcting the end play. The shim is OK as a stop gap measure to avoid having to pull the engine but you are already past that point.
That coil ring is toast. Obviously you need to remedy that before running the car any more. You don't want pieces of it circulating in the engine. Once you have it out you have two choices. You can use The Electrical System book and rebuild it yourself, or you can send it to a rebuilder as a core in exchange for a new one.
(773) 586-4485 email@example.com
I had my magneto rewound by R.V Anderson years ago. I was very pleased with the workmanship then, and am still pleased with how well my car runs on magneto (better than on battery). He also recharged my magnets, which you could do yourself if you'd like. This should definitely be looked at either way if you're going through all the trouble of removing the field coils.
Can't seem to find his contact information at this time, but hopefully he or another one of his customers will chime in.
Steve, updated info on Total Recoil is:
Mark Fleischhacker has taken Total Recoil over. His e-mail address is firstname.lastname@example.org Phone number is 612 710 6824
Not sure how that didn't copy correctly, should be email@example.com
Doug, thanks. Correction made.
If the crankshaft journals and the babbits are all good and only the crankshaft end play needs corrected the thrust surface of the rear main bearing cap can be built up and refaced.
I could be wrong, but I am not sure your problem was caused by improper crankshaft end play. Excessive crankshaft end play can cause a major collision of the magnet ends keepers and the field coil poles. I see no evidence of that in your photo, you report no loud metal to metal noises in your engine and even if that did occur it would not normally cause the type field coil damage in your photo.
More puzzling to me is I see no evidence of ANY cotton wrapping on the visible field coils. That is not normal. I suspect the magneto was not correctly repaired in the past when it was installed and the field coil windings simply came unwound causing the magneto problems you first described.
In any case I suggest you dismantle the engine, clean things up, install a new (not used) field coil and , if you suspect end play issues (you will clearly see the evidence of any magnet clamp/field pole collision), repair the rear main cap.
If you do not want to fully rebuild the engine at this time it is fairly easy to repair excessive end play using the rear main cap rework procedure by Ken Foster in the FunProjects website documentation section.
Ron the Coilman
Just a thought... something like this little do-dad might help set end play.
A bit easier to read... Check out the second paragraph.
I received an e-mail from R V Anderson about his coil rewinding service. Price seems very reasonable, and he said he has done 4000 of them. When I get it out I will ship it off to him.
Thanks for the input.