I no I no but I also have t'S From what I have been able to look at parts books. A uses a split valve guide. The valve looks like it has a knob on lifter end making it impossible to take the valve out with out taking out the guide. My engine is running horrible and I found sticking valves. When I pulled the manifolds off, guides are to blame. they are loose and moving. Doesn't look like one of fords better ideas. Any advice on fixing this?
You are quite correct that the A has split valve guides. They are held in place by the valve spring. The reason for the split guide is that the extra large lifter end of the valve is designed to minimise wear. Once set up with correct clearance (by grinding the end)there is no need to make any further adjustment until the next valve grind.
In a properly set up engine, the valve stems might wear enough to move in the guides, but the guides themselves should never move.
Perhaps in the past some misguided person (pun) has honed out the valve guide holes to be too large for the guides. They should be a tight fit and require a special shaped punch to remove them.
Install new valves and guides
Even if the guides are a bit loose in the block, the springs should hold them in place.
Yes, you need to pull the springs; if the guides are that loose, you may not need the removal tool, and can just pull them out the bottom. If you don't have an A friend around (almost everyone with an A has the removal tool), you can get one from "the usual sources." Snyders, for instance, carries Model A parts.
You may need new valve springs too.
Thanks for all your help, here is a photo of my Ford T/A racer
Another photo of my model A
OMG John, what is that tank on the front of the car from? Tell me you know. Also do you know what the grill is from?
The fuel tank came off of a ranch in AZ I think it was for a generator, the grill is a modified 38 ford