Replacing spark and gas rods on a 13 Touring

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Replacing spark and gas rods on a 13 Touring
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Sommers on Thursday, March 03, 2016 - 01:18 pm:

I followed the advice from folks on the Forum regarding disassembly of the steering column. When I went to heat the fingers holding the spark and gas rods, there was no gap to indicate that the ends had been previously closed in assembly. Upon heating up the fingers, a couple of drops of solder melted out from the base of the gear case, revealing an indentation in the housing. Is it possible that when the 13 was manufactured, the rods were slipped through the lower part of the gear case, and then the actual gear case was then riveted to the upper gear case? There are 6 rivets holding the two parts together. Is removal of the rivets the key to getting the rods out, or should I make kerfs in the fingers so they can be bent out, and then bent back during re-assembly?

Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warren F Rollins on Thursday, March 03, 2016 - 01:36 pm:

You are correct,I believe that the rods were inserted ,then the gear case was soldered and riveted. Lot of trouble unless you have damage, the rods were brass plated but I painted mine black. Never had a critical remark concerning the steering columns on my two cars because 99% are done that way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, March 03, 2016 - 01:48 pm:

Here are photos of one that I disassembled and reassembled with the new reproduction brass rods. It is actually easy to do if you have the right tools.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Sommers on Thursday, March 03, 2016 - 02:04 pm:

Gentleman... Thanks for your help. Since I already bought the rods, I guess I'm committed. Can I use the 5/32" rivets that are used to attach the Steering Quadrant (obviously shortened), or do I need another size??? Also, are there any exotic tools that I will require, other than patience?

Regards,
Mike Sommers


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Thursday, March 03, 2016 - 02:18 pm:

Lang's sell the rivets. Don't forget to add a transmisson thrust washer under the steering shaft.That prevents any wearing off of the rivet heads.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Thursday, March 03, 2016 - 02:35 pm:

Sounds like the advice that was given to you was on how to do the later style columns. They are different.

You have to remove the works from the end of the tube. However, don't remove the upper gear case. Make a small slot in the end of the ear that captures each rod and THEN proceed how you normally would if you were building a later style column... (per the advice someone already gave you).

It is best not to disturb the rivets and solder on the upper gear case (but people who do it that way will tell you they never have a problem).


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