Got my 26/27 engine cleaned up and painted and headed towards re-install after I get some frame issues resolved.
I'm running this engine in a 1915 rolling chassis for a WWI Light Patrol Car project, so it will have brass radiator. I believe I've installed the correct upper radiator hose outlet and the curved fan bracket and pully and fan and belt.
But, this is my first T project, so it never hurts to have another pair of eyes on it in case I forgot the knutner valve or whatchamacallit thingamabobby.
Thanks in advance.
Don't ask . . .
If you run the later large crankshaft pulley with the early small diameter riveted fan pulley you will likely throw a fan blade. You should install a later fan pulley (larger diameter) with the later (bolted on) fan blades cut down to clear the lower tank of the early radiator. The riveted fan blades have been known to go south. Especially while being driven at higher RPM.
26/27 Coil box with a brass rad and hood???? Will it fit? Dan
Agree with Mark. You need to swap the lower pulley or use a later fan.
Your engine looks very nice. You did a great job in cleaning and painting it. If it runs as good as it looks your in great shape.
OK, thaks for this. I'll see what I can scronge up on the fan issues. I've got the 26/27 pully and fan, but they mount on the special water inlet bracket that puts everything too high, so that's why I went this route. Perhaps the smaller crankshaft pulley and larger belt will be the easier solution.
I posted a specific thread on the height of the engine and the low radiator hood and only found two guys that were running this engine in a brass radiator setup and both were running distributors and no coil box. Or the coil box on the dash for appearance only.
It does look like it sticks up too high in relationship to my radiator hose. May have to wait until installed and then either go to firewall coil box or no hood. My WWI Light Patrol Vehicle has been envisioned with both a hood, no hood and only upper hood shell, so I'm vlexible.
I have a nice steel radiator shell that is shaped like at early radiator. It may work well with your build. Send me a PM and I'll forward you a few photos.
If you are going for the 1915 look, shouldn't the engine be black? Also if it works on a 26 engine, shouldn't a low head be on a 1915? I know you aren't going for perfect, but I though you were looking to get close in appearance.
You will have to fabricate a water inlet on the head. The outlet on the 15 brass radiator is lower than a 26 radiator. I had the same problem when I did my 14 speedster.
What color green did you use?
Well, I certainly hope I dont' have to fabricate a water outlet for the head as I purchased the earlier year outlet after guideance from the forum members.
My vision for this vehicle is that it would be a 1915 Model T Light Patrol Vehicle that underwent a motor pool rebuild in 1926 and a 26/27 engine was installed. So I went with the green. My modifications to the engine was for the cooling fan to fit the brass radiator. I have left the original head and coil box on the 26/27 engine along with the Kingston L4 carb.
I have the original radiator and shell from the speedster that was running on it when I acquired it. So I can always reevert back to that, but I have a brass radiator, hood and hood former along with a wooden firewall, 15 front fenders.
The green I used was Antique Ford Country engine paint M-q00 Antique Frord Green. I cleaned it as best I could, sprayed a light mist coat of metal etch primer, one light coat of a Krylon Gloss Hunter Green and a top coat of the Antique Ford Green. That way, if I missed a few spots with the correct green, it would not be so noticeable with a green first coat and I saved the "good" stuff for the final top coat and touch ups.
I read all about the raven finish and parkerised nuts and bolts and I just went with a light brushed aluminum shade for contrast and to highlight all the castle nuts and cotter pins. I know it's not authentic or correct, but it's MFT.
I think the early water outlet you have on he motor will work just fine. I would recommend you find an early crank pulley to reduce the fan speed. I did the same two mods when we originally assembled the speedster. Later I used later fan cut down to fit as the original fan blades showed cracks......
Best of luck.
I cannot say for certain that it will line up fine. Most of them don't. Often, the problem with lining up the brass radiator and a later head actually turns out to be a problem with the radiator. I have personally done this, and occasionally, someone else on this site will also admit to this. Laid an early low head on a table nose to nose with a later high head. Where the outlet to the radiator bolts on? There is not much difference. Several people that have gone to the trouble to measure and compare brass radiators have found that with all the after-market replacements from the brass era to current, there is quite a bit of variation in the radiator. There is a little variation with heads, but not nearly as much. It is much more noticeable with the brass radiators because of the extremely low angle and the fact that the distance between the radiator and head necks is only about a half inch instead of the over an inch people with later black radiators are used to.
Odds are, you will have some difficulty fitting the radiator. That is very common. I usually scrounge a slightly loose radiator hose, seal it with Permatex number two, and squeeze the hose down with a modern worm-screw hose clamp to hold it for a week or two before replacing it with a correct type hose clamp for looks. (Do not loosen the hose, just wrap the old and new type clamps off and on) That trick usually allows for a lot of leeway between the necks.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Get the repo early upper neck youl be fine close but fine I think youl just cut the upper hose a tad the coil box won't fit under the early hood