I'm going to scratch build a light open express body on my 1915 chassis. The front fenders are stock 1915 and I've got the correct front fender irons.
My plans for the wooden body to not address rear fenders. I was presuming I could run the front fenders to the running boards and the rear fenders to the running boards and then just directly bolt the rear fenders to the sides of the rear utility bed.
If anyone has a wooden utility body or express body, are rear fender irons still needed? And, if so, are there differences in 1915 body styles that I need to be aware of when I look for these rear irons?
This will be a bit of a Model T salad as I am restocreating a WWI Light Patrol Vehicle and Model T accuracy is not a priority. What would the US Army have done when they assembled these is more of an issue. Or their supplier.
Thank you in advance.
look at my profile picture of my cab - top light express. I bolted my rear fenders to the side of the bed after bolting them to the running boards.
No problems on alignment at all. I used depot hack rear fenders. This leaves no gap between the body and fenders.
What are you going to build the machine gun out of? Ive seen replicas hooked to propane that put on quite a show.
The depot hack/truck rear fenders use a piece of strap iron 1/4" x 1 1/4" that has a twist in it.
There should be a hole in the skirt of the fender for this to go through. One end of the iron bolts under the fender with two bolts. The other end of the iron bolts to the bottom of the wood sill of the depot/hack truck body. Anyone who can heat metal with a torch or forge can make them. On a 1915, your rear fenders don't have the crown, so you don't need to build that into the irons, as you do for the 17 and later. If you need pictures send me your email, as I don't know how to post pictures here.
James has it right -
I would supply pictures but I am in Las Vegas this week and don't have pictures of the rear fender braces on this computer
I guess I can install my front fenders and runing boards and then adjust my bed body measurements so that my rear fenders can bolt directly to the wooden side of the bed. If additional support is required, I can form a twisted rod or bar stack to the body bed or sides. I'm thinking that the overlap of the body on the frame will make it impractable for a iron to go directly to the frame and then to the fender like a metal body car.
Sort of depends on what you are using for fenders.
My Hack had regular touring fenders with notches in them (and other reversed pieces welded in to make 'hack' fenders) and regular fender mounting saddles.
Took a hint from the '25 pickup way...sorta...all-thread through the body frame with heavy nuts drawn up, double nuts, shove the all thread through the existing fender hole and fender mounting saddle, tighten the standard way.
As to Fred offering to supply a picture for another Hack,but can't right away, here's his original....(watch my fingers do not even move as Fred's own bracket shows up )
If the sides of the body are flared outwards, standard fenders can be used and mounted in the usual way. To use standard fenders with straight sides, the body will need to be fairly narrow to fit between the fenders. To have a straight sided body of wider proportions, the fenders will need to be notched to allow the body to fit between them.
Hack fenders will change this of course.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.