While ago I saw a thread on the forum didn't pay much attention to it as I was currently biulding a TT truck
So my question is are these still being made
And any contact info get a set I be most grateful
Thanks in advance bob
Contact Larry Sidmore (209) 533-9207, he makes them. $350 for the set, but that does not include the linkage, you have to make that yourself.
Richard Baughman in Loomis Calif makes the linkage.
Does anybody make AC brakes or that style for 26-27 cars/
Yes Richard does make the linkage and they are great no holes to drill any place and just first class components. I have his linkage and Larry's brakes on my 15 Roadster both are first class and also unlike some other brakes they do work in reverse. Another thing the linkage does not use cables all rods. Just a real great setup.
Does anyone have a picture of the linkage Richard makes? I've been curious to see it.
Yes, I too, would like to see the linkage made by Richard Baughman. Inquiring minds would like to know.
Hey guys I have A set of Larry's AC brakes I used the equalizer for 1926 27 sold by the venders and made up my own brake rods fairly easy to do now when you use the parking brake you have the shoes on the inside and the AC on the out side of the drum . when you use the foot brake it uses the AC and the brake in the trans .takes a little patience to set up. Car in storage or I would take a picture .Ross Harris
I give Larry a call in a week or so when thing settle around here
That was my next question if you still use the internal parking brake
How about these? They are of an unknown brand but the design is sound. They work in both Forward and reverse. Antique Auto Ranch has this pair for sale. $400 or $500 with an Equalizer.
I Like em. It's not everyone that will have the same kind as you do!
Mike, are those small drum?
I bought the linkage from Richard, I could send pictures Friday, I'm out of town actually. Richard and Larry are both first class person. I highly recommend them. I do not install it yet on my 1911 but I will in April this year. My restoration project is longer than I expected because I like making it right.
Hi Gentlemen, has promised the pictures of linkage from Richard.
I look forward to seeing your report and pictures. I have a 1911 and the wrap around the pedal linkage does not clear the floorboards. I would not want to drill any holes, so Richard's set up might be the answer.
: ^ )
It's a very robust and well-thought-out linkage, I'm putting one on Barney.
Guys got my Goin now can't wait get a set
I installed the Larry Sidmore AC brakes with Rich Baughman's linkage on my 1925 Touring. The small drum AC brakes produced by Larry and the linkage made by Rich are both excellent products and both gentleman are super to speak with and very helpful. During installation I made note of the following helpful hints which may be of assistance to others.
1. If using the Rich Baughman linkage for the AC Brakes with Larry’s pedal then wait till you have all the components before installing anything.
2. Test fit all connections to be sure they are not too tight.
3. Check the threads on all bolts and nuts that they turn freely and easily together. If any resistance then clean threads and nuts thoroughly.
4. Pay special attention to the top brake adjustment nut on top of the spring shaft of the AC brakes. Be sure nut turns freely and easily and will go past the end of the shaft.
5. Check all yokes on linkage rods to be sure they will fit freely on the connection points at the brakes, linkage arms on bell crank, and on pedal. File the inside surface of the yokes and grind pedal or brake actuating arms as needed to be certain they move freely and smoothly.
6. Drill all yokes and insert points with one size larger bit to assure easy insertion of the pins and free movement without binding.
7. Depending on the rear axle base plate and radius rod design be sure that the brakes bolt up correctly and evenly. To get a correct fit you may need to insert a thin washer between the base plate and the brake assembly to center the brake band on the drum. You may also need to grind the section of the brake assembly that wraps around the edge of the radius rod for adequate clearance.
8. Check the bell crank mounting brackets on the linkage to be sure they slide easily onto each side of the frame. Depending on the amount of paint or undercoating on the frame it may require slight expansion of the slots by gently prying with a screwdriver. It also helps to file the insides of the slots so they are nice and smooth to slip over the frame completely.
9. Grease bearings on bell crank BEFORE installing the bell crank assembly to the frame because once installed on some cars it is difficult to get the grease gun into the fittings.
10. If necessary grind off top ear on Larry’s pedal as it is not used on most cars and on some cars may actually cause interference with floor board and prevent the floor board from fitting properly.
11. If the car has a starter then pay special attention to the fact that the low pedal linkage to the high gear clutch cam may interfere with the brake pedal when applying the brake pedal causing it to stick in the down position. To obtain proper clearance you may need to grind Larry’s pedal so the lower connection point is thinner and does not interfere. See Supplemental Description at end of this document.
12. Obtain two lock nuts which use the nylon insert to use on the back bolts used to attach the brake assembly to the base plate. The provided bolts are not long enough to use with the castellated nuts and the hole for the cotter pin is too far from the end of the bolt to allow it to be used. Using a standard split lock washer will not work since the bolt itself can turn in the base plate and become loose. (This may already be corrected as I advised Larry of this).
13. Once installed you may find that you need to grind off the corners of the brake band and pad in order to assure that the brake band does not drag and catch on the assembly. See before and after picture below. See Figure 1 and 2 below.
Note: Brake adjustment procedures are found elsewhere on the forum. I also utilized the brake light switch made by John Regan (Fun Projects) which worked very well. I did make a small off-set plate to use to attach it to the brake linkage pin rather than use the hose clamp provided. See Figure 3 below.
Figure 1 Showing corner of brake pad catching on assembly.
Figure 2 After grinding off corner then brake pad clears assembly.
Figure 3 Fun Projects brake light switch installed.
Supplemental Description of AC brake pedal before and after grinding to allow clearance of Low Pedal Linkage.
Close up Before showing low pedal linkage will not clear brake pedal.
After grinding of AC Brake pedal to allow for clearance of low pedal linkage.
Detail showing area and amount of grinding on AC Brake Pedal to allow clearance.Note: Camera angle exaggerates the distance between low pedal linkage and brake pedal.
I hope Bob and others find this helpful.
Thanks Bill these help alot
I waiting to hear back from both supplies
At this time
Does anybody have the contact information for Richard Loomis. Love to inquire about his linkage for these brakes. Thanks
His name is Richard Baughman
3771 Auburn Folsom Rd.
Loomis CA 95650
He makes a very good product and will work with you if you need help. I just put A/C brakes on my 23 Coupe with his linkage.
Richard lives in Loomis but as Randy listed above his last name is Baughman. I also have a second number for Rich (916-956-4871). He builds a great product and is super to talk with. See the Helpful Hints post above.
I bought the linkage set from Richard last year.
Great guy to deal with. He had them in the mail before he even received my payment.
His email is: